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  #1  
Old 01-17-2005, 10:12 AM
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Location: northern VT
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climate controls inoperative, looking for a band-aid

My heater/blower quit last friday or so... I have put 1500 miles on the car in the last month, and discovered that the heater would be intermitnt if the tempature in the car came up to the 'set' tempature on the climate control. afterwards, I would get little or no heat out of the vents. suspecting a monovalve issue, I adjusted (stupidly) my operating procedure.

So recently I have kept the heat setting on high, and regulated the blower motor speed to keep the cabin tempature at a warm but comfortable level. the other day, friday I guess, i started the car and once the tempature gage came up, I turned on the heater by the usual method of turning on the 'EC' button... Nothing, no blower, no vents making noise. So I am asuming that the climate control has broken. Luckily I have another one in a box... but I dont want to trash it because of stupidty... My question is based around reading other threads where by people have bypassed the monovalve. Is that safe to do? I have another monovalve as well, and I plan on installing it.

The 'but' is:
I should flush the system, but it is a whopping 15 degrees outside...
Actually that is what I am headed to do, as I assume it's neglect over the last 10+ years has caused this problem..

for the next week it is supposed to be January like cold around here...

can I put the system together where it will work until say april, then I can repair/flush in a proper way?

All thoughts are welcome, I am gonna make some hot coffee, and put on some warm clothes...

Oh, why was it that the heat would not blow out to the floor? is that some thing "big" to fix as well?

Jason

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  #2  
Old 01-17-2005, 10:34 AM
Old Deis
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Does any your defrost button work?
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Old 01-17-2005, 10:46 AM
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Location: Brandon, Mississippi
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Good thing you have another CC Controler. Before you install check the resistance to Monovalve and Aux water pump this can damage ccu. If you have resistance to monovalve just replace the valve (4 screws and pop out). You don't have to remove the entire assembly. Coil can be replaced at same time if needed.
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Old 01-17-2005, 12:08 PM
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I share your pain. It was -14F here in minneapolis when I had to go to work and -5 in the garage.

My temporary fix to get hot air out of the lower driver's side vent is as follows:

1. remove driver's side knee bolster and pull back carpeting from side of center console to the extent necessary to see heat vent door.
2. remove vacuum hose supplying vacuum actuator for lower vent from (stupid) control assembly.
3. apply vacuum to actuator through hose to open vent door (you will be able to see it move) with mityvac (if you don't have mityvac you could probably just push door open, but I don't know for sure).
4. shove something in door to keep it open (I used a plastic tent stake).
5. end.

This makes a huge difference. You can make a proper repair when it gets warm out.
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Old 01-17-2005, 01:12 PM
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No defrost...

drained and flushed the system...

replaced the monovalve...

i have another electic pump, should that be replaced as well?

At the moment I cannot get more than a gallon of antifreeze in the cooling system. temp gage is a bit over 80 degrees, and still no burp...

not having much fun with this today!!!

I like the idea of the tent stake, but I dont have a blower motor to push any air... but that could be hot wired I guess.. may be that is a good idea,

can I put 12 volts to the fan, and call it good until april?

I really dont want to trash my good CC 'box' but my feet/hands are cold enough for me to loose perspective.

Jason
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Old 01-17-2005, 01:49 PM
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You say the blower and heat quit? Sound from here that the circuit board there has gone bad. I had the same, but the defrost would blow, at least for a while.
If the monovalve goes, the system will still try to blow heat, either too much, or none, depending on whether the monovalve stuck open or closed. But if the blower fan goes nuts either the blower itself, or a fuse, or if it began as you describe as intermittant, you more likely thatn not have a circuit board that is not working.
Choice now is to replace with a rebuild, for lots of buck$, or to remove it and get a your soldering iron out. I have resoldered mine twice. Second time I borrowed a digital temp controlled iron that worked much better. There are several pins on that board that age and leave the connections open and then the heat no longer will work.
I say the choice is now, because if you take a solder iron to it, it is no longer an acceptable core, and the co$t goe$ up. Check it out.
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Old 01-17-2005, 02:16 PM
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resoldering sound like the way to go! May be I will get lucky. I will replace the unit and keep it, to play with it at a less hectic time. Finally took the upper radiator hose off, to fill the head with antifreeze. was going nuts trying to get it to burp, with no luck.. saying my prayers that I dont have to work on this puppy again until warmer weather..
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Old 01-17-2005, 04:47 PM
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Turns out that it was the blower motor..... I guess I understand more about the CC system than I did, and the antifreeze has been changed... what a long and round about way to gain 'experience'

Thanks for all your imput,
jason

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