So far I believe the German's thought of just about everything except -

There is not a good way to remove the entire window regulator without cutting the wires to the motor and then splicing them back. They are soldered into the door switch and into the motor.

I cut mine and then used some plug type connectors in case I have to remove it ever again. I use the kind that you crimp and then melt the conncector insulation around the wire with a small torch. These never come off. They also form a watertight seal.

This is the only engineering flaw I have found so far. It would be much easier if you could just unplug the motor.

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1982 300SD Light Blue
2002 Honda Accord SE
1974 Toro Wheel Horse Tractor
2000 Toyota Tundra Pickup

I dont know what they did on your model year, but on my '88 126, I was able to take the switch apart, and free the two (I think) wires that needed to be freed. Luckily, the wires and the holes that they belong in are numbered.
I agree that they could've put a plug in there though...they do it for other stuff, why not for the window motors?

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It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein


09 Jetta TDI
1985 300D

I presume you're talking about the rear ones... if you don't like yours you'll love this one -

My LR only works when the door is open! When it's closed, nothing. I haven't had time to see if the power or ground or both are pinched that results in this anomaly

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]