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#1
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Transmission, overhaul or replace?
1981 300SD 270k miles. So It's just about time I'm afraid to overhaul my transmission. The question is, should I attempt this myself, take the car to a transmission shop, remove the transmission first and take it to a shop, or what? The overhaul kit from Fastlane says it comes with everything but the steel spacers, (are those re-useable?) for 260 bucks, but what about the brake bands? I can't imagine getting out of a transmission shop for under 1k, and a new (rebuilt I assume) trans looks to be about 1500. I've already done the B2 replacement, and the K1 accumulator spring etc. but I'm afraid it might be a lost cause.. So is it rocket surgery to do this myself on a bench, (I have skills, but not alot of time) or should I leave it to the experts and sneak another grand from the wife's vacation fund?
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#2
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I don't think you have enough info to make the decision without stripping down the transmission first. If the clutch packs etc look really beat I'd get a rebuilt transmission or find a used one that's in better condition to work on.. I have a feeling that in years to come the trans decision is going to send a lot of Benz's to an early grave.
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Bill Reimels Now down to one: 1972 300SE 3.5 W109 (Euro delivery) |
#3
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When the time comes I will pull mine and have a shop do the rebuild; it should run about $1200-$1500. A used trans would be great if you an get it for free why pay $500 for another 100k+ mile trans? I would never go through the trouble. I also don't want to buy another rebuilt trans I want mine rebuilt at least that way I know what I am dealing with.
Mine slips at bit once in awhile but it still has life left in it.
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#4
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Transmission troubles
Hello
I have only posted a couple of times on this forum but this one is right from my own backyard. I was a automatic transmission mechanic for 15yrs. I got out of it back in the 1980's. So for what it is worth here goes. You do not need the steels to rebuild the transmission they only need to be replaced if they are burned or scored which only happens if the transmission has been gotten really hot like racing or towing heavy loads. Also allowing to slip for a long time can cause this also but they are not expensive. As for rebuilding it yourself. Rebuilding a trans is alot like surgery if you do not have a very clean room I would not do it myself. The average GM transmission in the 1980's had about 1500 pieces to it it that gives you any idea of what you are in for. I am not saying you cannot do it just be very prepared. A hair in the valve body can cause a lot of trouble in the long run. If you are going to get a used. Make sure it has not been sitting for very long as the oil will drain off the seals and they will start to dry up. The trans may work at first but after about 6 months or so you will start to see problems again. And by not very long I mean I would not by a trans that has been out of a running car for more than 3-4 months. As far as I can tell the qoutes a close I just bought my son a 380 sel and the trans was overhauled in it prior to me getting it and the bill was 1800. Also as for the bands They are reusable and only need replaced if they are flaking off. The most important thing to replace on any trans when overhauled is the torque converter. It holds 3/4's of the fluid in the trans and if you rebuild and use the old converter you are shooting yourself in the foot. And if a shop tells you they can drain it all out I would turn around and walk away immediately. The only way to get all the fluid out is to cut it open on a lathe. Also as far as taking it out of the car then to the shop(we called these carry ins) that is fine but most will not warranty the trans or will have shorter warranties on it. And if anything goes wrong they will generally say you did when you put it back in. As for taking it out and apart first (we called these basket cases ) and charged accordingly typically a lot more. Because the shop does not what has been done or even if all the parts are there. If you do not want to spend the money on a rebuild find a car the has been wrecked recently and get it but remember it is still used. I hope this helps My 2 cents. |
#5
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I'm going to be making this decision in the next year or so. Mine slips going into 3rd. I'll probably go with the "carry in" rebuild route.
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Adam Lumsden (83) 300D Vice-President of the MBCA International Stars Section |
#6
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Quote:
I also took the tranny out of my SDL. It had 312k miles on it. I didn't even know if it had a problem but since I am rebuilding the engine, I don't want to take it out again. I took it to a rebuilder. Cost $1100 and that included the torque convertor. http://www.europeantransmissions.com/europeanhomepage.html
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Michael LaFleur '05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles '86 300SDL - 360,000 miles '85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold) '89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold) '85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold) '98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold) '75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold) '83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-( '61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes 2004 Papillon (Oliver) 2005 Tzitzu (Griffon) 2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba) |
#7
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I thought the torque converter on these cars could be drained. Wouldn't draining, putting in some solvent, draining again mybe a few times be enough to clean out the TC? Do TCs wear out or just get grungy. Aren't all TCs basically rebuilts?
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#8
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Last I checked my local indy (A Better Wrench) did rebuilds, including removal and installation for $1500 or so with a one year warranty. They take them somewhere else locally to have them done. While it isn't that difficult, removing a tranny without a lift is not much fun...worth the extra few hundred dollars to me.
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Rich Mason Chapel Hill, NC 1990 300D 285k miles 1993 VW Cabriolet converted to 1.6 TD 1985 VW Westfalia 1.6 TD |
#9
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Quote:
Quote:
Thank You
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1989 300CE Astralsilber/Schwarz 1992 300CE Schwarz/Schwarz |
#10
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There is a drain plug on the MB torque convertor. When I was researching the rebuilds the question of the rebuilt torque convertor came up. Seems the rebuild involves cutting off the front shaft and welding another on there. That shaft is a wear part, as are the vanes inside. Getting that front shaft welded on correctly is a real issue. Makes a big difference in the longevity of the rebuild. Many shops just send out used convertors.
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#11
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I've only rebuilt 1 auto trans (chrysler 4-speed electric shift, minivan type), but someone with good mechanical aptitude can pull it off successfully. I had a very clean workspace and a supply of E-size paper rolls. I laid out a 20' section of paper, disassembled the trans and laid it out along the paper and made notes on it identifying everything. I covered the parts from dust with another 20' roll. I measured stuff, bought a rebuild kit and a few plates I needed, and reassembled to specified clearances. I suppose it's roughly on par technically with rebuilding an engine. Very cool though, I found it fascinating, I'm glad I did it. We drove the van another 68K and sold it, the trans worked better then than when we bought it with 90K.
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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue" "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement." listen, look, .........and duck. |
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