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  #61  
Old 11-02-2006, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmak124 View Post

I also have the Watts 1/4 ID Clear Vinyl tubing from Lowes for less than $2. On the label it clearly states "Use for: Low Pressure", Since JimmyL uses it, I'm assuming its fine.

You assume correctly, as you are only going to be using very low pressure anyway.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by jmak124 View Post
I don't have any automotive grade silicone, but I do have some for aquarium use... will it work?
Silicone is available almost every place there is, even the automotive grocery store isle. Very cheap too......

I will have to use mine when project 300D/240D progresses further. Hopefully it won't shoot brake fluid out of rubber tabs on top of fluid reservoir. You will want to make sure those are not cracked or split. Even with only 5psi......

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'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
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'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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  #62  
Old 11-02-2006, 12:30 PM
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Hmmm

Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
I have a question.
I have changed the fluid in two of my MB's and I used no bleeder at all.
I siphoned out the reservoir fluid, filled with clean fluid, had daughter keep reservoir full, and just opened the bleeders up. fluid flows quite nicely with no pressure at all.
is there something wrong with my MC that lets gravity flow out the fluid?
John
If they have ABS, then your system has issues.

The older systems gravity bleed fairly well.

I still favor pressure bleeding on all systems, because it is an active flush.

LOL, you need more cars.
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  #63  
Old 11-02-2006, 12:52 PM
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And the cap? What's the P/N for the cap? Since no one mentioned it..
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  #64  
Old 11-02-2006, 02:22 PM
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Smile Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by jmak124 View Post
And the cap? What's the P/N for the cap? Since no one mentioned it..
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Last edited by whunter; 10-02-2011 at 02:33 AM.
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  #65  
Old 02-09-2007, 10:55 PM
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Which cars cannot use the pressure bleeder?

Quote:
Originally Posted by R Leo View Post
...some reservoirs have a 'breather' hole in their top (my W115 for example) and pressurizing the system with this sort of bleeder makes a HUGE mess of spilled and dripping brake fluid. Be sure you clean up your mess or you'll be missing paint.
Do we have a list of which cars can and cannot use the pressure bleeder because of a breather in the brake fluid reservoir? I don't want to make a mess of either my 123 or 124.

Jeremy
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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-biodiesel family
1995 E300D (W124) . .239,000 miles My car
1996 E300D (W210) . .313,000 miles Wife's car
Santa Rosa population 170,685 (2012)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 722,685
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
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  #66  
Old 02-10-2007, 12:06 AM
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Answer

All vehicles can use a pressure bleeder.

If you reverse bleed from the caliper = fill the system one caliper at a time = blow the air back to the master cylinder.

To prevent a mess you must keep sucking excess from the master cylinder.
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  #67  
Old 09-06-2007, 04:32 PM
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easy alternative to master cylinder cap

Hi everyone,

just wanted to share a modification I made to the homebuilt pressure bleeder. Instead of using a spare MC cap, or a GM one from pepboys (couldn't find either near where I live), I used this:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=23490-34146-RPC40&lpage=none

it's a flexible hose cap from lowes, 1.5" size. It was about $3. I cut a hole in the center of it by twisting in a blade from my leatherman, pushed a 1/4" barb through the hole, and that was it. connected the hose from the garden sprayer to the other end of the barb, clamped the cap onto the master cylinder (1.5" fits just right), and that was it. worked perfectly with no leaks.

Just though I'd share if anyone else is building one of these. very simple.

- dave
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  #68  
Old 09-06-2007, 06:28 PM
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Rear part of the master cylinder reservoir

I'm assembling the pieces to build one of these bleeders for my 123 and my 124. Will both sides of the MC reservoir be kept full? I don't know how high the dividing wall is -- I would imagine it's like the bulkheads in the Titanic, only go up part way?

A tank like this would also be nice for draining engine oil. I have a surplus store vacuum pump that would work nice with a 2 gallon tank, suck that dirty oil out real slick.

Jeremy
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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-biodiesel family
1995 E300D (W124) . .239,000 miles My car
1996 E300D (W210) . .313,000 miles Wife's car
Santa Rosa population 170,685 (2012)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 722,685
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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  #69  
Old 09-06-2007, 09:54 PM
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Answer:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy5848 View Post
I'm assembling the pieces to build one of these bleeders for my 123 and my 124. Will both sides of the MC reservoir be kept full? I don't know how high the dividing wall is -- I would imagine it's like the bulkheads in the Titanic, only go up part way?

A tank like this would also be nice for draining engine oil. I have a surplus store vacuum pump that would work nice with a 2 gallon tank, suck that dirty oil out real slick.

Jeremy
Correct, it passes over the divider + pressurized fluid keeps filling.
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  #70  
Old 10-31-2007, 05:33 PM
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Update for 10/31/2007

Although there are a few brake bleeders out there for about 47 plus tax on up to 80 for the same product I decided to make my own also and tally up the cost. The procedures are all the same except that there are no longer any cheaper sprayer with the hose clipped on , they are now attached via screw on cap. The difference is unscrewing the cap pulling off the hose from the tube device and substituting the 1/4 inch tubing you have and then screwing it back on for a compression fit.
So the costs:
Sprayer Walmart: 084168800101 8.97 + tax
MC cap Pep Boys: 6.99
1/4 " Brass fittingLowes:27631 1.83 (watts A-192)
1/4" Brass fittingLowes: 27632 1.83 (watts A-197)
Vinyl tubing 1/4"ID 10' Lowes: 16813 1.82
Flat washers Lowes: 63309 .68 for four
Clamps Lowes: 22666 1/4"-5/8" .88

Work well. Took me awhile and I had to make a trip to WM and Lowes and with price of gas....
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  #71  
Old 01-04-2008, 12:33 PM
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heres mine. simple, cheep-(free for me) and dirty. you will have to top off the reservoir after each corner is bled, but for the $$ difference, that is no problem for me. besides, it keeps more plastic crap from being made in china and sold at walmart.

It has a 30 psi gauge on it. I set the air pressure to about 10 psi and use a clip on tire valve.
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Brake bleeder - power bleeder Homemade-dscn0997.jpg  
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  #72  
Old 01-04-2008, 12:57 PM
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^^^ Very similar to what I made, I used a spare reservoir cap and a tire valve stem.

Drill the appropriate size hole listed for the valve stem through the cap
pulled the valve stem into it.

Then bought one of those air nozzles that clip on to the valve stem and set my air compressor pressure down to the right PSI.

Just need to make sure the reservoir has fluid in it after each brake caliper is bleed.
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  #73  
Old 01-04-2008, 09:09 PM
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Home-made bleeder results

I built my bleeder from a 1-1/2 gallon garden sprayer, some vinyl tubing, brass fittings, and a spare reservoir cap. I also put in a pressure gauge that I had in one of my parts boxes.

Well, it works great. I've done both my '85 (non-ABS) and '87 (ABS equipped) cars. I pressurized the '85 to 5 psi and, afraid to push the '87 to 20 psi for fear of blowing up the reservoir tried 10 psi and found it worked very well.

To catch the inevitable drips and spills, I surrounded the master cylinder area with newspaper and rags. The hose is long enough to allow me to put the pressure reservoir on the floor next to the car.

I picked up 2 quarts of DOT-3 brake fluid from the local NAPA for about ten bucks each; more than I needed but I can always use the excess later (see below comment about storing opened containers of brake fluid). I would have preferred DOT-4 but they didn't have it in quarts and I was too lazy to shop around.

After sucking the old fluid out of the reservoir with the turkey baster, I installed the pressure bleeder with the cap a little loose to let the air escape, and then pumped the reservoir nearly full, tightened the cap, and pumped it up to pressurize the whole thing. No leaks so I proceeded to bleed, beginning with the right rear. I used an old drink bottle to catch the dirty fluid.

The right rear took the most time since the pipe length is longest. Both rear brakes have a common pipe down the underbelly of the car so the left rear then goes quickly, as also the fronts. Once the four were done, I gently unscrewed the pump to remove the pressure, removed the bleeder, put the original cap back and was finished. As usual with these jobs, setup and cleanup took the most time.

All good chemists will tell you never to put chemicals back into the bottle. Since I am not a good chemist, however (and am cheap to boot), I always save the excess. Since brake fluid will deteriorate (most kinds are "hygroscopic," they absorb water right out of the air), I back-filled the bottles with "Bloxygen," a product that I found at the local woodworking supply shop. It's intended for paint and varnish but should help brake fluid too. If I check the bottle a couple of years from now and find it's gone bad, OK, then I'll toss it. But it might just work.

One thing I discovered is that brake fluid, being hygroscopic, cleans up very easily with hot soapy water. That helps preserve the plastic parts and prevents spilling.

Total cost, including the fluid: about $40 with enough left over to do our new '96 E300D next spring.

Jeremy
Attached Thumbnails
Brake bleeder - power bleeder Homemade-img_2309.jpg   Brake bleeder - power bleeder Homemade-img_2310.jpg   Brake bleeder - power bleeder Homemade-img_2308.jpg   Brake bleeder - power bleeder Homemade-img_2311.jpg  
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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-biodiesel family
1995 E300D (W124) . .239,000 miles My car
1996 E300D (W210) . .313,000 miles Wife's car
Santa Rosa population 170,685 (2012)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 722,685
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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  #74  
Old 01-29-2008, 02:18 PM
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Nice home made bleeder.

My MB is 85 300sd. Has ABS. Would a home made bleeder be adequate to bleed a brake system after replacing the master cylinder? Have heard that getting air in the ABS pump is bad. Never replaced a MC on ABS car before.

Instructions on how to replace the MC in the service manual section 43 0310 says "immediately plug all brake lines with rubber caps and connections on tandem brake cylinder with dummy plugs", but has no special bleeding instructions. Just says, "bleed brakes and check for leakage". Thanks.
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  #75  
Old 01-29-2008, 02:49 PM
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Yes

Quote:
Originally Posted by bolzano View Post
Nice home made bleeder.

My MB is 85 300sd. Has ABS. Would a home made bleeder be adequate to bleed a brake system after replacing the master cylinder? Have heard that getting air in the ABS pump is bad. Never replaced a MC on ABS car before.

Instructions on how to replace the MC in the service manual section 43 0310 says "immediately plug all brake lines with rubber caps and connections on tandem brake cylinder with dummy plugs", but has no special bleeding instructions. Just says, "bleed brakes and check for leakage". Thanks.
YES, it will work if made correctly.
Read the full thread before buying any parts to make it.
Make a required parts list before shopping, and remember to carry the list with you.

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