I'm sure this info is posted somewhere, but I couldn't find it. My rear driverside window will not go down. When I push the switch the window goes chunk chunk chunk like it wants to go down, but I won't. Any insites.

Thanks

Sounds like a worn out regulator....but you need to take the door panel off and get a better look.

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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

The rear door regulators are CRAP!! The weak frame casting bends after a while and allows the gear to come "un-meshed" with the motor. Not much you can do but take it out and try to bend back to useable shape. A good junkyard one (if you can find one) is a better bet.

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1984 300D Turbo - 4-speed manual conversion, mid-level resto

1983 300D - parts car

1979 300TD Auto - Parts car.

1985 300D Auto - Wrecked/Parts.


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"If you don't know where you are going, any road will get you there". Lewis Carrol

I have found that a lot of the time its not nessecarily the window regulator. Oftentimes its as simple as that little white nylon bushing that connects the window sliding jaw to the regulator. Check those first. You will need to take off the door panel

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1983 300SD White with Grey interior

and if you do find it's one of these lovelies, I have a suggestion. Drill a 5/64" hole in the end of the pin and use a cotter to fasten it on. Worked great for me - beats trying to peen it over in the door or taking the regulator out to do it.

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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

The W116 uses the same kit....only it has a spring clip that holds it on. THere is a groove machined into it that the clip fits on.

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

I wonder if the one for the 116 would really fit the 126. If it did, that would be the way to go.

__________________
'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

W116 regulators are not cheap.....or easy to find....they wear out pretty quick too I hear....

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

What I did with that little piece is I took out the regulator ( not that hard to do) and held the piece in a vice while holding the regulator where it connects and then using a pinbal hammer and flattening the metal of the bushing so that it prevents itself from falling out of the regulator. After inspecting ones already installed it seemed to me that that was how mercedes did it originally.

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1983 300SD White with Grey interior

either motor or regualtor....sounds like regulator...someone has already probably informed you of this tho.

Has anyone ever tried to weld/reinforce a regulator? Mine failed at the top pulley last time. It looked as though the torque from the motor bent it. Is there a way to quickly spot weld a reinforcement strip to it?

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Ed
-1984 Mercedes 190D 2.2 5-speed gray market(bought@30,000 miles) (Sold back to original owner@170,000 miles)
-1999 Mercedes E300DT (245,000 miles)
-1999 Mercedes S500 Grand Edition (80,000 miles)

I have had to replace several and they fail because of poor quality materials and no limit switches on the up and down motion of the power window. Mine have always been made of a pot metal that cracks easily.

Last one cost $99 for the part plus labor. I don't know where he bought it because when I priced them, they were much higher.

Now that I have more time, the next one will be replaced by me with parts from the salvage yard. My next trip there will include a search for one or two of them to keep around for next time one breaks. So far, they have all been on the drivers door.

On my 95 E320 the driver's reg went-the final few teeth at the top broke off! So if the window was a couple of inches down it would go up and down electrically just fine, except when it got up as far as it could it made a 'bang-bang' sound as the motor tried to mesh with nothing!

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2002 Mercedes-Benz E320 4Matic
1995 Mercedes-Benz E320 Wagon
2005 Land Rover LR3 V8 SE
1999 Audi A8 4.2L quattro