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Problem not starting
Ok guys. Heres my situation. I made the long drive down from tallahassee to miami with a slightly blocked radiator. The car ran at about just over 100 c until towards the end of the trip were it started creeping up at about 110 to 115. I ran it at that temp for just under an hour at a lower speed of of about 65. I get into miami and install a new radiator. I have just replaced the thermostat as well. Now it doesnt want to start. I have replaced the battery, the alternator and the ignition all very recently and when i turn the ignition all I can hear is the starter solenoid click. What do you think is suspect? Before I replace the starter what other mechanisms should I check? Is it possible that at that temp the engine might have siezed ( i wouldnt think so)? Thanks again guys.
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1983 300SD White with Grey interior |
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I must also mention that i recently switched out the neutral saftey switch and was wondering if this could be the source of the problem.
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1983 300SD White with Grey interior |
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Your starter solnoid has failed so you need to either rebuild your started and install a new solenoid with it or buy a Bosch reman. The starter is a PAIN to do on a 617 because of the lack of space in the area. As a temporary fix just hit the solenoid, the box on the starter, with a bar or similar heavy object. It will then crank away. So hit, then go in the car and crank, Repeat as needed. Also, the problem usually surfaces when hot, so maybe wait awhile and it will start.
Thanks David
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_____________________________________________ 2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles 1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles _____________________________________________ |
#4
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Might work.
My experience with 617 starters is that when they die, they are dead. No beating ever got mine to turn over. (unlike many other cars I have owned) I would get a new one with a life time guarantee, and make sure you have a real good battery. That will end your problems, hopefully, for a long time.
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Think Alternative Energy! 300CD '80 (now gone but not forgotten...) |
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I actually did bang the hell out of the solenoid both while with the key in the ignition position and off of it. I did wait for the car to cool too and that didnt work. If iam hearing it click doesnt that mean the solenoid is engaging? i know the pin inside the solenoid is supposed to strike a brass contact, is it possible that this is bad? How can I positiveley identify the starter as the source of the problem. I have heard of people running a wire from the solenoid to the positive terminal of the baterry or using a screwdriver.
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1983 300SD White with Grey interior |
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Try turning the crank (I think you need a 27mm socket). If the engine will turn easily, it's your starter. If it were the neutral switch it wouldn't click. My 240 had a locked engine once and the starter would click and engage, but could not turn the locked motor. It was locked by the timing chain winding around the bottom sprocket.
Good luck!
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1976 240D 1987 560SL 2007 E320 Bluetec 1998 C280 (now son’s car) 1982 240D Manual - Sold |
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It is really unlikely your engine seized as long as there was still collant in the system when you went to change radiators. If you removed one of the battery cables when you changed rads then that battery post,terminal,or cable would become the number one suspect in my mind. Other than that you should be able to bypass the solenoid with a screwdriver from the large terminal on the solenoid to the other large terminal on the solenoid. If there are no major sparks or the starter does not turn then either the starter is dead or you have hardly any current available. Then you will probably need a small voltmeter to pinpoint the fault if it still is not indicated. But if the starter turns then most likely the solenoid is bad. I believe coincidence is possible but would concentrate my efforts on the battery cable first if you removed it to change the radiator. Cleaning the battery posts once in awhile never hurts anyways. I always put a little vasoline on the terminals after cleaning them and leave a few pennies near the terminals to act as sacrificial anodes as well. Proves pennies are still worth something I suppose and not totally worthless in todays economy.Just my thoughts. One other check that only takes a second is to reach down and see if you can turn the alternator cooling fins with your finger to eliminate the likelyhood of a partially discharged battery from running that distance with a loose alternator belt and if really loose it might have affected your water pump circulation a little but enough to look like a marginal radiator as well as not charging the battery properly. Lets hope it's not that as I hate watching grown people jump up and down.
Last edited by barry123400; 03-10-2005 at 09:40 PM. |
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