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  #1  
Old 03-11-2005, 12:30 PM
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Question does the hyd suspension "bleed down"

My wagon's rear hyd suspension bleeds down or something at night. Every morning when I start the car, the rear rises up about 2 inches. All day long as I drive, park, drive, park, etc, etc, etc...the rear of the car stays up.

But if I park for an extended time, mainly over night, the rear seems to bleed down.

I have never noticed any loss of fluid in the system.

Is this over night settling normal for the self leveling suspensions?

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1987 300TDT
1981 VW MKI Caddy 1.6 diesel, waiting on engine swap
1983 D-50 Power Ram 4x4 "Mitsubishi" 2.3 turbo diesel
assorted gas powered crap and motorcycles

RIP: 1984 300TDT, 1982 300TDT, 1984 190D 2.2, 1992 300D 2.5, 1987 300TDT, 1982 Maxima LD28, 1983 Maxima LD28, Isuzu C223 P'ups X3, 1983 Holiday Rambler 6.2 Banks turbo diesel, 1984 Winnebago LeSharo 2.1 TD, 1985 Allegro 6.5
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  #2  
Old 03-11-2005, 12:58 PM
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Yes it is.
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  #3  
Old 03-11-2005, 01:39 PM
lrg lrg is offline
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To a point a small amount of sag is OK but if it's dropping two inches it's too much. Most likely your rear actuator valve is leaking internally which allows the pressure holding up the rear end to bleed off. It can be fixed with a rebuild kit from the dealer. There is another thread titled "Rear Suspension" now going on that has all the details.
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  #4  
Old 03-11-2005, 01:59 PM
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My actuator valve was rebuilt by the PO, and it doesn't sag at all. In fact, I've tried to detect sag when I start the car after having it sit for a few days, and I never see it rise up. However, the self leveling function does work, and the rear sits at a good level all the time.

I think your problem is a fairly common one, and not a very severe. I've heard valve rebuilds are among the cheaper things to fix on the rear suspension. (not like the pump replacement on mine ($$$)).

peace,
sam
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  #5  
Old 03-11-2005, 02:01 PM
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I have not measured how much it settles...

If I leave my foot on the ground when I get it and start, I can feel the car rising up. It feels like a couple inches, but maybe that is just because it rises for about 2-3 seconds.
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1987 300TDT
1981 VW MKI Caddy 1.6 diesel, waiting on engine swap
1983 D-50 Power Ram 4x4 "Mitsubishi" 2.3 turbo diesel
assorted gas powered crap and motorcycles

RIP: 1984 300TDT, 1982 300TDT, 1984 190D 2.2, 1992 300D 2.5, 1987 300TDT, 1982 Maxima LD28, 1983 Maxima LD28, Isuzu C223 P'ups X3, 1983 Holiday Rambler 6.2 Banks turbo diesel, 1984 Winnebago LeSharo 2.1 TD, 1985 Allegro 6.5
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  #6  
Old 03-11-2005, 02:06 PM
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I have left my 1980 300TD parked for a week at the airport and I hardly noticed any change in suspension height so would say you definately have an internal leak. I guess I'm just luckly since carbon dating of the accumulated crud on the valve shows its never been touched....
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  #7  
Old 03-11-2005, 02:08 PM
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Sounds like the settling is not nromal.

But is it worth fixing? Can I do more damage by trying to fix it? As long as it pumps up while driving, why bother?
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1987 300TDT
1981 VW MKI Caddy 1.6 diesel, waiting on engine swap
1983 D-50 Power Ram 4x4 "Mitsubishi" 2.3 turbo diesel
assorted gas powered crap and motorcycles

RIP: 1984 300TDT, 1982 300TDT, 1984 190D 2.2, 1992 300D 2.5, 1987 300TDT, 1982 Maxima LD28, 1983 Maxima LD28, Isuzu C223 P'ups X3, 1983 Holiday Rambler 6.2 Banks turbo diesel, 1984 Winnebago LeSharo 2.1 TD, 1985 Allegro 6.5
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  #8  
Old 03-11-2005, 02:13 PM
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W109, Floating on air!!
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odie
Sounds like the settling is not nromal.

But is it worth fixing? Can I do more damage by trying to fix it? As long as it pumps up while driving, why bother?
I don't think you can do any harm by leaving it alone. Only when the leak is external is immediate attention required. Just enjoy the ride in the morning!
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Old 03-11-2005, 02:15 PM
lrg lrg is offline
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If you can feel the rear rise on startup it's not normal. Mine went unfixed for quite a while and I don't think it causes any harm but I got tired of seeing it look like a lowrider every morning. I suppose over time the leak would get worse and it will eventually sag at shutdown. Until then I'm not sure it makes a difference.
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Old 03-11-2005, 02:38 PM
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The only time my '79 wagon sagged was when I loaded it up with 1200 LBs of ceramic tiles. I drove it carefully and she perked up OK but I could hear the pressure lines singing all the way home (made two trips like that incidentally!)
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  #11  
Old 03-11-2005, 02:49 PM
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Mine sags overnight, too. Seems to be more of a problem in cold weather. Anybody got a part number for the rebuild kit and a DIY writeup?
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  #12  
Old 03-11-2005, 02:52 PM
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Nevermind on the part number. It's already posted in the current "rear suspension" discussion.
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  #13  
Old 03-11-2005, 03:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WannaWagon
Mine sags overnight, too. Seems to be more of a problem in cold weather. Anybody got a part number for the rebuild kit and a DIY writeup?
I think the key parts (the ones that leak) are just a couple of hardware store $0.10 O-rings. If you can afford extra downtime I would tear down the valve first and determine what needs to be replaced, before forking over 60 bucks to the MB profit center....In 5 years of veteran MB ownership I have yet to go to the Stealer for parts...
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  #14  
Old 03-11-2005, 03:20 PM
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mine does not look like a low rider in the morning. It's really not even noticable. Only if I leave my left foot on the ground while sitting in the car do I feel the car rise up during starting.

Maybe one of these days, when I have absolutely nothing else to do, I might poke around and see what seal or valve is bleeding and see about fixing it.
__________________
1987 300TDT
1981 VW MKI Caddy 1.6 diesel, waiting on engine swap
1983 D-50 Power Ram 4x4 "Mitsubishi" 2.3 turbo diesel
assorted gas powered crap and motorcycles

RIP: 1984 300TDT, 1982 300TDT, 1984 190D 2.2, 1992 300D 2.5, 1987 300TDT, 1982 Maxima LD28, 1983 Maxima LD28, Isuzu C223 P'ups X3, 1983 Holiday Rambler 6.2 Banks turbo diesel, 1984 Winnebago LeSharo 2.1 TD, 1985 Allegro 6.5
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  #15  
Old 03-11-2005, 05:17 PM
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If I were you I'd write down the part numbers and keep it in the back of your mind. At some point the valve will be internally leaking so bad that it can't pump up faster than it sags, and you'll drag your ass around. That effect would be worse while loaded than while unloaded. Then you'll want to fix it.

I wouldn't mess with it now unless you are looking for a project. (which I know we do sometimes ). Its always possible that you'll strip a fitting or something like that while removing the valve, and there is no use opening that pandora's box until you have to.

peace,
sam

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2001 Aprilia SR50 Corsa Red w/ 5.5k (>100 MPG)

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