Instrument Cluster Dimmer Switch Question / Do I have a short?
 

No dash or switch lights with the head lights on

Some of the resent posts on the topic made me pull the cluster gauge and test the rheostat with my multimeter. The dimmer switch is defiantly bad, so I decided instead of ordering the part and all of that jive; I would just bypass the rheostat all together and solder a wire in its place. When I placed the wire on the two prongs that had previously connected to the dimmer it pegged the temperature and fuel gauge. Is something wrong or do I actually need to replace the switch and stop being a cheap bastard?

1984 300D

Something is definitly wrong. I have jumper wires on all of mine. i AM a cheap bastard! :eek:

I left the rheostat in (minus the internal spring) and soldered the jumper on the back of it instead of on the clusted itself. That was theres no possible way to damage the cluster.

I solder two brake sensors together and then just plug them onto the pegs on the cluster.

This would have the same effect as what I tried so something must be wrong.

DAMN !

are you certain your bulbs arent burned out......secondly....pull your tach...look on the front side of it...the W123 and the W116 have a pice that goes though it and folds over...its soldered on the face side of the tach (opposite side of where the dimmer actually mounts....I've had that joint broken on both my cars.

I can be fairly sure the bulbs are not out because all of my switch lights are out also.
Later today I will read the wiring diagram and find out what wire is related to the night lights and make a plan from there