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  #31  
Old 03-25-2005, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang
Randy, you are an old MX guy... don't you remember the little deal that would screw into the sparkplug hole to find / check TDC back in the old days ?
I've slept since then.

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Last edited by R Leo; 03-25-2005 at 02:23 PM.
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  #32  
Old 03-25-2005, 03:22 PM
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"Well, do I need to remove #1 injector line and rotate engine until it wells up in #1 nozzle, and see if it is at 24 degrees BTDC? (from inj. timing link under above sticky)"

I don't know what it says there... you need to set your Start Of Fuel Delivery... I have one of the curved , cut off, fuel lines to plug into your number one output on your IP... then you set the engine someplace....and rotate the IP until you get One drop per second coming out of the tube....
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  #33  
Old 03-25-2005, 06:52 PM
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Greg

" then you set the engine someplace.." Do you mean "same place" as in 24 btdc, or set the engine someplace like the workbench or floor Then rotate the IP ?
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  #34  
Old 03-25-2005, 07:27 PM
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Yes, a nice engine stand would be nice...
But actually what that meant was that I did not know it from memory and would have to look it up.. preferably right before tackling the job...
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  #35  
Old 03-25-2005, 08:12 PM
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"look it up.. preferably right before tackling the job..."

I thought I had it down pretty good but spent 1/2a day timing a 240D that I just put an engine in. Musta turned over it over umtee zillion times and couldn't get a good it. I would change the position of the IP, check it, worse, go the other way, each time cranking the engine over two times to see the results, oh...gota go a little more.... finally figured out ,I had slacked off to much on the nuts and IP was doing the "wobble", shoulda caught that sooner
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #36  
Old 03-25-2005, 09:01 PM
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There is one of those nuts that is really hard to get to.... do you remember what you used to access it ?

I am surprised that there is not a mechanism for moving that IP measured distances... seems like we used a two by four to get behind it.. not great....but worked.
A deal like the tightening mechanism on one of the belts would fine.... if you don't really loosen that nut the thing is hard to move.. and even harder to move in a controlled fashion....
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  #37  
Old 03-25-2005, 09:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang
The relationship on the load side of the chain between the cam and crank is pretty much set... but rotating the engine backwards makes us think your IP is out of time due to the chain not being against the driving cogs of the IP during that blasphemous event...

The only time the Factory shop manual allows the engine to be turned backwards is for finding TDC... but we are talking a very slight amount... and one needs to follow the instructions in the manual for that...
At the time I was trying to line up the marks on the cam tower, and that last mm or two is rather hard to rotate, so it popped past the mark a little. I only turned it anti-clockwise a smidge to get the marks aligned.
This was also last July (good grief, long time to smoke), and I've learn-ded a thing or two since then. Not enough mind you, but a measurable amount.
I'm going to study up on timing the IP, also on aligning the IP. If it did jump a tooth, will I not have to remove it and reinstall correctly aligned? Will remove the IP from the parts car first, just to see what I'm up against.
I've been trying to call this recommended guy from Colleyville, but he simply won't answer or return my calls, so I can only assume he isn't interested. May have to look for someone else in DFW area.
Dumb question forthcoming. When and why is it necessary to find TDC? (of piston #1 right?)
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  #38  
Old 03-25-2005, 11:12 PM
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JimmyL

You dont want to turn the engine backwards even a little as you wont get a accrete reading, gota go around, and again You need TDC to find where the valves on # 1 are for finding how much chain stretch you have.

Greg... I use a gear wrench for that one nut on the back end (from underneth) and a long extension and swivel for the one between IP & block, really not much of a problem on a 616 to reach them with the right tool
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #39  
Old 03-25-2005, 11:25 PM
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Thanks Steve.....Did you disconnect the fuel lines or not ?
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  #40  
Old 03-26-2005, 01:37 AM
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the fuel lines...... I haven't been able to move the IP with the lines attached. I cut them lose at the top and bend each a little to make a fit when it comes time to re attach them. and I mark the IP to block joint with a chisel for reference.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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