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-   -   Part # inquiry: Bolt that goes through W123 rear subframe bushing (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=118468)

Maki 03-21-2005 11:06 AM

Part # inquiry: Bolt that goes through W123 rear subframe bushing
 
Hello group -- can someone with an EPC look up the part number for the big bolt that goes through the rear subframe bushing on a W123 chassis? While removing the rotten left bushing from my 300td I managed to snap the head off the bolt.

Thanks,
Russ M

BF_JC230 03-21-2005 12:40 PM

i do not have it - i can look it up tonight on a receipt...but i can tell you the dealer sold me two of them, and i think they were about $17 a pop...going all off of memeory here - a year ago purchase...
i remember soaking mine for days before they came loose, amazingly enough - above teh rott line the bolt was brand new...
jake

240_Dizzell 03-21-2005 03:33 PM

Part #
 
I look up the part #

it appears to be 115-352-00-69
maybe some one else can confirm..... :)

dieselbeagel 03-21-2005 03:43 PM

go to a junk yard and get one for pennies on the dollar.

whunter 03-21-2005 04:33 PM

Hmmm
 
Questions about Parts?
Call Phil for help at
1-888-333-4642
Mon-Fri 8:00a-6:30p ET
(NOT for technical support)

I just called and confirmed the number with Phil.
115-352-00-69

MB dealer order only = $23.50 each.

Maki 03-21-2005 09:17 PM

Thanks, folks
 
I've got my order in at the local MB dealer in West Allis... $20.79 each with their generic "club" discount factored in. Their parts counter is usually not too outrageous price-wise (unless you consider $20 for a bolt outrageous :) ) but I can't trust 'em to get the part right on these old cars if I don't have the number or if I'm not looking over their shoulder. Hence, I do appreciate the help.

As for dieselbeagle's suggestion that I get replacement bolts from the junkyard: it's just not worth the grief to me for a $20 part, especially up here in the salt belt. Thanks for the suggestion, though.

I swapped out both rear subframe mounts in my 300 cd -- a California car -- in less than an hour. My 300td hails from Atlanta, but the elements had seized the bolt up solid in the subframe mount. After cranking on the bolt until I snapped the head off, I had to carve the mount off of the bolt with a Roto-Zip so I could apply heat to the bolt stud without setting anything on fire. So far, the one mount has taken about 5 hours of struggle, but the broken bolt IS out...

Seems like the bolt on the other side is gonna be a little less stubborn, but I've refrained from engaging in serious tugging til I've buttoned up the side I'm working on now. Wish me luck!

Russ M

estod 03-21-2005 11:11 PM

Stuck bolts
 
This may be a little elementary for this site, but I've had great luck using "Fabulous Blaster" on this kind of thing without twisting bolts off -------- superior to everything else I've tried ... available most everywhere now (20 yrs ago it was new & hard to find).

whunter 03-21-2005 11:57 PM

Sad to note.
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by estod
This may be a little elementary for this site, but I've had great luck using "Fabulous Blaster" on this kind of thing without twisting bolts off -------- superior to everything else I've tried ... available most everywhere now (20 yrs ago it was new & hard to find).

This and other products are not very effective for this job, the bolt shank is a close fit to the sleeve and corrosion builds to weld quality bond. :(
Due to location, and design of the mounts it is nearly impossible to get any lubricant where needed. :(

My answer is say a prayer that none are seized, remove the bolts and grease them when you get the car, then forget them until the mounts need replacing. :)


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