Could someone tell me where I could get a good, detailed step-by-step set of instructions to re-do the ball joints on a 1983 240D? I am only a moderate do-it-yourselfer. Thanks to DieselBone, I plan on renting a spring compressor from AutoZone for free. I hope I am not in over my head; I guess someone better tell me if you think I am. Thanks. /Mark

You don't need a spring compressor to replace the ball joints. Which is a very good thing if you were planning to use the Autozone compressor. I strongly recommend that you line up a Mercedes ball joint press before you start the job. They are available for rent, but advance planning is usually necessary. Alternatively, you might be able to find a shop that is willing to press you new joints for you if you bring them the steering knuckles. Pressing the new joints is a five-minute job with the correct press.

Amen on the correct press.

Once you get the knuckle out, put it in a vice and knock out the ball joint with a large hammer. If its stuck, use some heat.

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1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350

You say I don't need a spring compressor for ball joints. What about for the control arm bushings. I want to get those done, I think. What do I need a compressor for, if anything? More importantly, do you know where I can get a detailed step-by-step manual? I have not looked at a shop manual, but I fear it may not give me the helpful hints I think I will need. Thank you for your help!

if the lower control arm is coming out, yeah you need the spring compressor. You're going to use the dual plate and piece down the middle of the spring type compressor right? The ones that clamp on the outside are dangerous.

Same goes for the upper arm, although I've done it on the side of the road without one... royal pita though...

__________________


1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350

I do not think heat should be used on the knuckles unless you are cutting them out and are not going to reuse them.

If you don't have the wherewithal to follow the factory manual that might be an indication that you are getting in over your head. Suspension work can be very dangerous if the car is not supported properly or you undo the wrong bolts by accident. Anyway that said, check this out:

http://207.210.95.34/~boostd/FrontSuspension/balljoint/

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Bill Reimels
Now down to one:
1972 300SE 3.5 W109 (Euro delivery)

Ebay has plenty of CD service manuals for sale. Paper versions are frequently available also. The front-end suspension is in Volume 1 of the 123 service manual.

http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/Service/Library.html

Can be slow to load, depending on how many are using it.

Dave

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1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car