fusebox "fix"
 

LOL, As I slowely introduce myself to my car I removed the cover on the fusebox to discover a very clever :rolleyes: "fix" for what was probably a fuse blowing repeatedly. Instead of a fuse between the terminals...in one spot someone who worked on this car took it upon themselves to connect the terminals with bare uninsulated multistrand wire.

Here's one of the "if it aint broke fix it anyway" things I intend to renew....even if the componetns "protected" by that fuse function it just doesn't seem prudent....Maybe this explains why the liscense plate lights were melted on my car????

Could be
 

The beginning of a nice Mercedes fueled bon fire. I would disconnect the battery and not drive it or, pull that fire waiting to happen wire out of the fuse box! Be carefull, car fire are not nice...................

Agreed 100 percent. my car's not yet ready for registration the battery is disconnected and she's on ramps right now.......Happily I didn't burn to the ground during the test drive...It was registered when I bought it about a month ago....

a couple weeks ago I removed the batt. tray to investigate possible corrosion (woohoo - zero!) and last night I put the tray back in and connected the batt briefly....I didn't have the fuse box cover off but was listening intently for the faschizzle of frying wires....I seem to be aq magnet for automotive electrical challenges...my other project car is a '67 landrover...I'm in the long slow process of battling with Lucas (the Prince of Darkness) wiring. As the saying goes....Lucas wiring...a gentlemen needeth not motor around after dark or something to that effect....

If you get the wrong bulbs at the auto parts store (too many watts) it will melt the housings until the bulbs sink and loose contact with the power contacts...

Ask me how I know...I will be at community service for 16 hours this weekend for exactly that problem.
*irrate* :mad:

Hmmm
 

Sounds like the blower motor fuse, the bushings start binding = massive power draw.
#1. Remove the blower motor.
#2. Inspect the brushes.
#3. Lube the bushings with sewing machine oil.
#4. Spin by hand.
#5. Repeat #3. and #4. until it spins free and easy.

Look at the fuse holder, the metal tabs can get hot enough to melt out of position, then you need to splice in a spade fuse holder.

Have a great day.

Cool, good info.

This is the "fix I was refferring to...I thought the "wired wonder" postiion served a couple of windows....Does that sound right? Looks like number 11 upper right in photo has seen some heat....That small black blob is fuse block case gone from solid to liquid to solid......waht does #11 serve? I gotta find my yellow card (fuse diagram found iside fusebox cover) and take a look

is there a way to access the under side of the fuse box other than from under the dash?? i am trying to check if there are any loose screws underneath the box. i tried to just simply flip it over but found it very difficult.

re bulbs
 

on the wrong bulbs... the reason they melt things is there too long and too high a wattage. they touch the plastic lense and will melt it. i have not seen them melt the backside but it doesn't surprise me.

Yep.
I finally got the right ones (NAPA Auto Parts had what I needed).
Working good now...the brighter ones are a nice upgrade for the door lights if you want some more light on the ground. :)

Stayalert,
If you haven't already taken that "wired" fuse out, PLEASE do. I have seen quite a few older cars "totaled" (not worth fixing) because of things like that. Please don't hook the battery up and listen for frying wires because if you hear that sound, the car is already toasted.

I struggled to get to the underside of the fuse box, via the dash :mad: , to install the 30A bypass fuse for the a/c circuit.

Then, I read that it is possible to remove the fuse box in the engine compartment. You can then easily get to the underside of the box and access the terminals. I have not done this myself, but, it would be far easier than using one eye and one arm underneath the dash.

Maybe someone can comment on the details of how to lift the box and access the terminals underneath. Presumably, there is enough slack in the wires???

there is enough slack in the wires, just have to becareful make sure the metal don't cut the wires. i push the whole fuse box in, turn it on on it's side, pull the left side out first and then the whole thing does come out from under the hood. did it yesturday.

I'd order a bunch of the updated copper fuses from Phil and change every fuse in that box, also clean the contacts while you are doing it. Their should be a chart on the lid telling you what amp fuse goes where. That glass fuse shouldn't be in their too.

Agreed its on my list of things to do before reconnecting the battery...Also on my list are install engine shocks, oil pan, boost hard line, vac, control valve, connect shut off valve, and assorted other vac. plumbing...Getting closer to turning the key :D

I thought NAPA made glass fuses for these vehicles? In fact, I thought about getting some. :cool: