Hello out there! I was wondering if anyone could tell me on the fuel filter on the mechanical diesels...can it be changed out without repriming the injectors. Just finishing up on some routine maintenance, and was wanting to change that filter too.

What type of vehicle/engine you have. But, on my diesel W123 OM 617, yes the priming pump is needed after any filter change to purge the air. You may want to add vehicle type, mileage, and location to your signature.................

__________________
1984 300D Turbo Sedan (Hilda) 272,115 miles.....
Anthracite Gray/Palamino Leather, I am 3rd owner

2001 Dodge Stratus (Silver) (wifes) 55814 miles...

1982 280TE Wagon Astral Silver Metallic/
Anthracite Velour
260,512 miles (Eva)

1969 230 Sedan Olive Green/Black MBTex
4 Speed Manual
84,213 miles ????
Haus Frau


2004 Boreem Ninja Pocket Bike
Highly Modified 49cc (Ling Ling)

Einigkeit und Recht und Freiheit

Priming is a pretty simple procedure. Should only take a few minutes. You should replace both filters.

__________________
'85 300SD (formerly california emissions)
'08 Chevy Tahoe
'93 Ducati 900 SS
'79 Kawasaki KZ 650
'86 Kawasaki KX 250
'88 Kawasaki KDX200
'71 Hodaka Ace 100
'72 Triumph T100R

Unless you have a 603 or newer engine then you just crank.

__________________
1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

vmbuge,

Why should replace both filters or either filter if the engine will run at full power?

P E H

The car is an 83 240 D. Would I be just wasting money then if I replaced the fuel filters if it runs and starts strong. I thought it might be best to do this to possibly keep and dirt out of the pump etc.

Suggestion; Replace both fuel filters every time you change your oil. If you change your oil at every 10k miles, which is not unreasonable for a Diesel, then changing the fuel filters at the same time is in order. You aren't talking about a lot of money and you are already dirty anyway.

It is just me, or does that sound a bit too often?? Maybe once a year??? The pre-filter is clear plastic, and you can tell when junk is getting in that. If it has a lot of crap in it, chances are your main has more stuff in it.

__________________
-Randy Wakefield

1969 220D 4 speed (parts car)
1976 280C
1976 280S
1981 240D 4 speed (parts car)
1982 300D
1983 300TD (Ivory)
1983 300TD (gold)
1985 300TD (gray)
1987 190D 2.5
1970 280SEL (sold)
1977 240D 4 speed (sold)
1974 280 (rusted to death)
---
1927 Chevy 4 door sedan
1938 Chevy 2 door sedan
1950 Willys Jeepster
1955 Studebaker President 4 door
1977 Ford F250
1979 Glastron 17'
1948 John Deere A
1960 John Deere 2010
1979 Satoh S650G
--
2000 Bichon (Doby)

You cannot run oil in a 616 or 617 for 10k miles. The soot loading would be way over spec!

I change mine every spring, (about 15k+/- miles)and when I poured to fuel inside the spin on into a clear jar it was full of crap.

__________________
1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Rebe,

Yes, its a waste of money to replace fuel filters before thet are full of dirt. They actually filter finer particles out as they start to get full of dirt. If you get clean fuel with no fungus in it, fuel filters will last for years and 10s of thousands of miles.

The inline filter has been on my '79 300SD for 7 years and 60,000+ miles. The final filter was replaced about 4 years ago only because it developed a hole in the side of the can and leaked fuel. It was a white label brand with no name on it or I would have taken it back and demanded a new one.

I had a fungus problem in the '80 300SD and had to replace fuel filters and strainer often. Once I added Biobor, I only had to replace 1 inline filter in 2 years. and 15,000+ miles. That stuff really works, but it is expensive. 1 quart cost ~$80 and almost half was shipping cost because its shipped as a hazardous substance.

Any dirt stays on the outside of the filter medium and doean't get to the IP. You can't tell how full a filter is by looking at it, it debends on how much fuel it will pass that determines when it needs to be replaced.

P E H

Fill your new filters with clean fuel and little if any "priming" is needed. If you can find a way to do this without spilling any, so much the better. I use vegetable oil as fuel, so a few stray drops don't bother me.

I change both the filters every 6 months or when I see a significant amount of gunk in the primary filter. I also clean the tank strainer at the same time (When I have less than 1/4 tank of fuel or reserve light comes on.)

P. E. H.

As a rule I whenever I purchase a car I always change fuel filters, oil filters, spark plugs (not in the SD or course) and sometimes plug wires along with an air filter and PCV.

On my diesel as a general rule of thumb I ALWAYS replace both filters at the same time.

Hatteras,
You are trying to tell him that if he has something older than the 603 just to crank the engine to prime the filters?

__________________
'85 300SD (formerly california emissions)
'08 Chevy Tahoe
'93 Ducati 900 SS
'79 Kawasaki KZ 650
'86 Kawasaki KX 250
'88 Kawasaki KDX200
'71 Hodaka Ace 100
'72 Triumph T100R

Well as far as I know all 86+ diesels in this country lack the hand pump. They are self bleeding Ie just crank them over.

__________________
1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

OK.
I was just a little confused on the wording.

__________________
'85 300SD (formerly california emissions)
'08 Chevy Tahoe
'93 Ducati 900 SS
'79 Kawasaki KZ 650
'86 Kawasaki KX 250
'88 Kawasaki KDX200
'71 Hodaka Ace 100
'72 Triumph T100R