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  #1  
Old 04-16-2005, 12:43 AM
BenZ RaCiNg
 
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Location: Mooresville, North Carolina
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Why won't this start when it's cold!!!!!!

Ok i have checked the restance to all my glow plugs today, they were all around .2 to .4 Ohms. When i turn the key to on, i have 12 volts to all 5 terminals. It will not start without a little shot of starting fluid, even on hot days, what could be the problem, i can't figure it out. When it starts it runs great, how it should.

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  #2  
Old 04-16-2005, 08:10 AM
tomm9298's Avatar
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KISS principal

Employ the KISS principal here. (Keep It Super Simple). Check the cheap and easy things first. Fuel filters. You seem to have checked the glow plugs, ok. Next check valve adjustment. I assume your battery is in good shape. Which priming pump do you have, make sure there is not air in the fuel system. The other unknown would be injectors. If these look ok, then I would move to compression test. Then I would check start of delivery on your IP and timing chain stretch/wear. All you need to start is compression and fuel at the proper time and a diesel will roar to life. Or, make sure you are NOT pumping/touching, or thinking about your accelerator (gas) pedal while trying to start. My diesel will hard start every time if you touch the pedal like you would when starting a gasser. Good luck, keep us posted on your progress. Sorry I did not give details on how to check everything, but I do not know which diesel model you have. Do a search, all of the above have been covered well. Check the "won't start for anything" thread, that thread in itself is an education on MB diesels.
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  #3  
Old 04-16-2005, 11:46 AM
TonyFromWestOz's Avatar
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Diesels need 3 things to start:
1. Compression - these are a Compression Ignition engine, so must be able to compress the air to the required 22 Bar to develop the heat required for ignition. Valve adjustments are important to allow this to occur. When cold, IDI diesels use glow plugs to compensate for loss of heat to the head.
2. Fuel - The fuel must be injected in the correct spray pattern and at the correct time.
3. Rotation - The starter needs to spin the engine fast enough to compress the air fast enough that the heat is not lost to the cylinder walls, head etc. A poor starter or battery, wrong lube oil grade, or other drag on the engine when cranking can affect the engine's starting.

There may be other issues, but if the engine is cranked fast enough, the engine has acceptable compression, the glow plugs work, and the fuel is injected in a good spray, at the right time, it SHOULD start.
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  #4  
Old 04-16-2005, 12:58 PM
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benzracing

I would remove the GPs and check them one at a time by hooking them up to a hot battery.

Your starter has to turn the eng at least 100 rpm

Have you adjusted the valves? Your compression could be low on one or more cylinders for one reason or another.

Remove the vacuum line on the aft end of the injection pump and try it.
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  #5  
Old 04-16-2005, 01:08 PM
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Benzracing,

Here we go again: Magic cure for everything is to replace the fuel filters.

If the engine runs good once started, the fuel filters are OK.

Usual problem of hard starting is low compression. This can be caused by valves or rings. So first check the clearance of the valves.

If valves are OK, do a compression test.

BTW, what model MB do you have?

Have you tried a push start? If it starts easily with a push start, it cold be a bad starter, battery or battery cable connections.

P E H
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  #6  
Old 04-16-2005, 02:08 PM
BenZ RaCiNg
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Mooresville, North Carolina
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Ok i have the 617.950 engine. It's a 1982 300 SD The battery and starter are fine, it cranks over fast. I have not checked the valve clearance yet, i'm planning on that next. Once it starts it runs perfect until it sits for over an hour then it's hard to start again
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  #7  
Old 04-16-2005, 05:09 PM
Geezer
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benzracing
Ok i have checked the restance to all my glow plugs today, they were all around .2 to .4 Ohms.
OK, 1.2 ohms would be a bit better, but at least they are not open.

Quote:
When i turn the key to on, i have 12 volts to all 5 terminals.
Confirm current flow quick and easy with courtesy lamp - it should dim when you switch to pre-glow.

OK, so we know you are getting glow to 5 cylinders.

Quote:
It will not start without a little shot of starting fluid, even on hot days... When it starts it runs great, how it should.
I am 100% in agreement with P.E.H, don't bother with fuel filters.

I suspect an air leak, introduced by an old hand primer pump. A little air in the injector lines will make a hard-start or no-start. Once it's running, after starter fluid boost, the fuel pump must be keeping up with the injector demand.

I'll let others comment, and suggest quick ways to check/replace your hand primer.

Sorry, my OM603 is self-priming....

Best Regards,
Jim
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  #8  
Old 06-09-2005, 01:34 AM
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if you want to end this problem look no further than the vacuum line that goes to the shut off valve on the IP, unplug it and you will see the stop lever go back up ( if thats the prob u will see the lever all the way down almost touching the body of the IP ) this problem is caused by a vacuum malfuntion causing residual vacuum to remain on the line, someone might have switched the climate control lines by mistake it seems like people keep having this problem and they check the filters and chain stretch and injectors and glow plugs and so on. I'm of the opinion that if it starts perfect when cold ( always true with this problem ) then it should start even easier when hot UNLESS air was introduced to all injector lines at the same time (air in one or two lines will make it run rough but not prevent it from starting at all.
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  #9  
Old 06-09-2005, 01:43 AM
mbonly's Avatar
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ok guys I messed up I though the tread read "it wont start when its hot " what I said really appies when is the "hot starting problem " how I confused the two I dont know but I would still check for residual vac to the shut off valve on any problem where is hard to start and then it runs perfect lets face it, any residual vac on that line will force the IP to starve the engine of fuel thats exactly what it was designed to do
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  #10  
Old 06-09-2005, 06:49 AM
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even still, the vacuum problem is typically just for a 603, not a 617.

another suggestion, possibly check your injectors- after replacing mine, it made a world of difference on that car. it starts with ease now and runs so much better.
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  #11  
Old 10-15-2009, 05:21 PM
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I was having problems with my 1982 300 SD Turbo not starting under 40 degrees. I was little aprehensive about adjusting the valves myself because I never did before. The job took me awhile but I got it done. I could not even get my feeler gauge in the intake or the exhaust. It fired right up and ran alot smoother. I had my first test the other day here in Colorado where it was 17 degrees without being plugged in and it fired right up. So my big problem was the valves need to be adjusted. Who knows the last time it was done. Now my next project is to replace oil filter gasket.
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  #12  
Old 10-15-2009, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elkhunter63 View Post
I was having problems with my 1982 300 SD Turbo not starting under 40 degrees. I was little aprehensive about adjusting the valves myself because I never did before. The job took me awhile but I got it done. I could not even get my feeler gauge in the intake or the exhaust. It fired right up and ran alot smoother. I had my first test the other day here in Colorado where it was 17 degrees without being plugged in and it fired right up. So my big problem was the valves need to be adjusted. Who knows the last time it was done. Now my next project is to replace oil filter gasket.
If you're referring to the oilg filter housing to block gasket, try tightening it first before going to the work of replacing it.
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  #13  
Old 10-15-2009, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elkhunter63 View Post
Who knows the last time it was done.
I do.
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  #14  
Old 10-16-2009, 09:35 AM
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Are the return lines going from injector to injector leaking? Have you done anywork to the fuel system? Does sound like air.
One of mine has some leaking hoses, and I have to floor it when cranking till it starts to catch, then let off and it fires up.
Got to get that found...
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  #15  
Old 10-16-2009, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackestate View Post
Are the return lines going from injector to injector leaking? Have you done anywork to the fuel system? Does sound like air.
One of mine has some leaking hoses, and I have to floor it when cranking till it starts to catch, then let off and it fires up.
Got to get that found...
Date of OP--4/16/05

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