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#1
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Vacuum loss after sitting overnight
Car losses vacuum overnight to the extent that when opened from drivers door none of the other actuators unlock anything else.
So where is the most likely place the vaccum leak originates? |
#2
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The door lock actuators in the front passenger and rear doors, trunk lock and fuel door. There are a number of other possibilities, such as rubber vacuum connectors, the vacuum lock in the driver's door. But the actuators have rubber diaphragms which flex and tend to crack.
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#3
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My W116 has taken to doing that within one hour........time to buy a Mighty Vac and go through everything not under the hood (I already redid every vacume fitting there)
In your case it can be any vacume item in the car....or a combination thereof.
__________________
Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
#4
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Autozone now offers the Mityvac in it's tool loaner program. Free.
Of course, if you are going to spend much time with a W123, you might want to have your own. |
#5
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Quote:
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#6
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Quote:
__________________
Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
#7
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Thank you both for your responses.
I've owned a 1983 240D before so I know a little about the vacuum issues. I do have a Mityvac. Since I have to replace 2 door check straps anyway and some fastners that hold trim onto another door I might as well take off the panel on the 4th door and check each of the actuators. I'll check for the other problem sources mentioned as well. This problem will be added to the long list of stuff I need to do to this car. |
#8
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Save yourself some time and test your door actuators at the splitters under the driver and passenger floormats. Even without the diagrams they should be easy to figure out what goes where. Green is unlock, red is lock. The 3-way's on the driver side - one from the master in the drivers door, one to the left rear door and one to the passenger side splitter. The 4-way's on the passenger side are, one from the drivers splitter, one to the rght front door, one to the right rear door, and one to the fuel flap and trunk actuator.
Have fun!
__________________
1980 500SE/AMG Euro 1981 500SEL Euro 1982 380SEL 1983 300TD 1983 500SEC/AMG Euro 1984 500SEC 1984 300TD Euro 1986 190E 2.3-16 1986 190E 2.3 1987 300D 1997 C36 AMG 2003 C320T 4matic past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350 |
#9
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Amen to what Johnhef says. You can troubleshoot darned near the whole vacuum system without pulling any panels.
(I didn't know any of the dieselheads on this forum DIDN'T own a Mityvac ) |
#10
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Most common place to check is above the oil filter canister. It's pretty easy to knock one of those loose when you change the oil. It's a good spot to start checking anyway because everything originates there. If you've been stuffing anything in your trunk, check the fuel door connection. See you around, my CD is Magnesium Brown...
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1982 Mercedes-Benz 300CD 1982 Mercedes-Benz 240D - stick |
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