I worked up the nerve to replace the bad caliper (front passenger side) on my '83 300D.

The old caliper bolts won't budge using a socket set and some WD40.

Any advice on how to remove them?

JJ

Half inch breaker bar + cheater pipe and gloves.

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1983 300D
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Sometimes it's amazing what a longer wrench will do. But then sometimes a short wrench and a hammer make a good team. Also make sure you are attacking the bolts that hold the caliper on, not the ones that hold the caliper together.

A breaker bar and cheater would be my choice.

Make sure your not removing the bolts for the tie rod arm.

Danny

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Try putting a box wrench on it with the open end bending away from the center of the car and strike the far end wrench sharply with a hand sledge. Toss that WD-40 and get something better, like Silikroil or PB Blaster.

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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

Be careful if you use a wrench and hammer. I was replacing the pads on my 124 a few weeks ago and had to pull the calipers to get to them. I took a full swing at the wrench, it slipped off, and I hit myself in the shin with a full blow. I have to say it hurt just a little!

I have used both methods to remove the calipers. I prefer the hammer and wrench method because there isn't too much room to get in there with a cheater bar.

Mike

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Mike

'80 300D
'84 300D
'85 300D
'87 300D

You typically need an 18" bar.

Set it up so that you are lifting up on the bar, which seems counter-intuitive.

However, you can get more force pulling up against the ground than you can pushing down against the sky.

The heads on those cap screws are quite large and you will likely not get any WD-40 onto the threads.

I now have an impact gun! It is a fun toy I would fire up the air compressor and let the impact gun go at them.

I find most suspension work requires a breaker bar and mini sledge to get stuff apart.

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J.J.

Breaker bar + long pipe = broken off caliper bolt. Don't ask how I know.

P E H

That's what I was thinking as I was reading down the page.

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Breaker bar + long pipe = broken off caliper bolt = bad caliper bolt.

The only other option is heavy heat on bolt = bolt is junk.

Once I went to impact stuff, I never looked back. What once was a drag is now fun.

dp

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Propane tourches are worthless because they won't get the metal hot enough. You need an acetylene torch.

P E H

I agree the wd-40 is worthless. Only good for door hinges. I really like PB Blaster. Soak that in overnight.
If the bolts are that bad I'll bet dollars to donuts the wheel bearings haven't been checked either. You can get the whole kit, bearings, seal and dustcap for roughly $37 from this site. Or you can just buy the seal for $6 each. I just bought the seal when I did it but my caliper came right off.

I'm not so sure about using acetylene. That could melt the bolt easily if your not careful. I would think MAPP gas would get hot enough.

Danny

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PEH, I've been mulling this over since last night.

If the bolts are heat treated and are stronger than low carbon steel, the use of a torch will anneal them and you will lose nearly one-half their strength.

If you had the possibility of snapping the head prior to the use of the torch, you are now looking at a guarantee of this situation occurring.

I wouldn't use the aceteleyne torch unless all other possibilites are exhausted.

I've used propane on many occasions with decent success. You only need a temperature differential of 200-300 degrees between the two components to break all bonds between them.