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#1
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a/c - where i start
while i'm pretty good/experienced w/ other things on my cars, i've always been scared of the a/c system, and have never attempted to work on one.
to make matters worse, the haynes manual just says "take it to a pro" in the a/c chapter... so, my '80 300TD won't blow cold, and i can't hear the compressor come on. i seem to remember that if you can't turn the front of the compressor by hand (is that the clutch?) that it's locked up and you need a new compressor + clutch... is that right, and could it be as simple as that, or is there a way for a shadetree like me to know the condition of the evaporator core, accumulator, expansion valve, etc, and whether they should be replaced simultaneously? add to that the fact that my current compressor shows R134 refrigerant? should i just shut up, and "take it to a pro" and drop what i'm imagining is $700 or so?
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-lee '83 300CDT (286k) former proud owner of: '85 mercedes euro 300TD '80 mercedes 300TD '77 mercedes 280e '80 mercedes euro 250 '82 mercedes euro 250 |
#2
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try a search ...........you got major issues to consider doing it yourself if you have a locked up pump...and you need to know what all of them are...and it involves flushing all the components out properly.
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Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
#3
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locked up pump
so, that is to say if i can't turn that end of the compressor by hand, i've got a "locked up pump?"
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-lee '83 300CDT (286k) former proud owner of: '85 mercedes euro 300TD '80 mercedes 300TD '77 mercedes 280e '80 mercedes euro 250 '82 mercedes euro 250 |
#4
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Quote:
Are you trying to turn the pully part or the front part......I think the front part is stationary.......and is the clutch energizing.........it won't if charge is low. if the pump is froze it has the "Black Death" any shortcuts taken with the system will dramaticly reduce the life of any new pump you put in it....as debris ends up all through the system. Which is the reason I suggested a search as you will need to read most of the vast info that has already been posted by some experts....this is a lot more involved than most other jobs.
__________________
Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
#5
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Quote:
Your compressor may or may not be entirely dead. You'd need to be totally unable to rotate the front clutch plate on the compressor, which is awkward to get at with the belt in place, and it not easy to rotate even on an OK compressor (yours may devoid of oil, too). Try taking off the belt, so that you can try rotating the clutch plate together with the pulley. |
#6
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I've rebuilt two AC sytems in the past, they're just not that hard to do... but will take a while to do properly.
If your compressor is indeed seized, you'll need to flush the entire system from the current oil and this will get out any metal that's for sure in there too. A few places here charge $70-100 to flush an A/C system, money well spent to me as I just don't have the adapters to do so. Installing new hoses, o-rings, dryer/accumulator, etc That's pie once you have it apart and the ref out (if any). Hit it with a vac, then charge it.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#7
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You need to "jump" the electrical circuit near the receiver/dryer. There are two "switches" that mount to the R/D. One is a low pressure cut out switch and the other is a temp fan switch that kicks on the aux fan in front of the radiator. You need to jump the low pressure cut out switch.
Run the engine, engage the a/c switch in the car (the middle one). If the compressor starts squealing-turn off immediately, you have a seized compressor. (Thats bad!) If it doesn't start squealing AND the compressor engages, you are much better off. If nothing happens, you may have additional electrical gremlins you'll need to solve. IMHO, you have a 24 yo car and the chance that the compressor is still good is slim. It may not be seized, but it probably leaks around the front shaft seal. DO NOT INSTALL A REBUILT A/C COMPRESSOR. ONLY INSTALL A NEW AC DELCO COMPRESSOR.
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84 300DT Puke Yellow. Totalled after 438,000 84 300DT Orient Red. 169,000 (actual mileage may vary) 2002 Explorer EB (wife's) |
#8
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Quote:
I can't agree more, rebuilt compressors I stay away from... made that mistake once on my F150. It's already failing.
__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
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