It is not what you think It is (truly):

Salvia leucantha: Mexican Sage

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The Golden Rule

1984 300SD (bought new, sold it in 1988, bought it back 13 yrs. later)

For me the problem with using a pop tester is not with the testing but with the results. When you test a used set or even a set of injectors with new spray nozzles the nozzles may not all will not preform the same. I hate when there is something on the border line and sometimes new nozzles can preform poorly. Do you return it or as my old boss used to say "let it wear in".

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

If you can still take them back...? I import them directly from Germany and sell them for $0.89 each. I can split up the box and vary the set number. They start at 0.80mm and go to 1.95mm in 0.05mm increments.

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1987 300D (230,000 mi on a #14 head-watching the temp gauge and keeping the ghost in the machine)
Raleigh NC - Home of deep fried sushi!

This is directly from the manufacturer of my new pop tester (the little home made one served me well but couldn't hold up.)

TESTING AND ADJUSTING
Nozzle needle and body are lap fitted to each other and should never be mismatched.
Testing should be carried out with clean diesel fuel oil or test oil meeting ISO 4113.
NEVER USE GASOLINE FOR TESTING! EXPLOSION OR FIRE COULD RESULT.
Keep hands away from nozzle spray. It can penetrate deep into the skin and and destroy the tissues. Fuel oil in the blood stream can cause blood poisoning.

Clean all nozzles.
Remove special conservation oil completely from new nozzles by washing them in clean gasoline.
Clean used nozzles of soot and carbon and likewise wash in gasoline. Allow them to dry then dip nozzles in clean fuel oil and insert them into injector body.

Testing.
When assembling, hand center and tighten before tightening with a wrench. Cap nut torques: 'P' nozzle 30-50Nm, 'S' nozzle 50-90Nm, 'T' nozzle 80-100Nm (verify for your specific application)
Verify nozzle is not jammed by connecting to the tester with the gauge stopcock OFF.
Operate the pump lever several times, forcefully about 6-8 pumps per second. If the needle is not jammed, the nozzle should chatter with a shrill whistle. If not, loosen the cap nut, rotate the nozzle and tighten. NOTE: hole type nozzles (IE: SD 240) will not chatter like pintle type nozzles even when the lever is pumped quickly.

Opening (pop) pressure.
Pressure is specific to your engine. Adjust it accordingly. It is sometimes stamped on the injector body.
CAUTION: WHEN PRESSURE GAUGE IS BEING USED increase and decrease pressure slowly or gauge damage may result. Slowly increase the pressure until slight chattering, read indicated pressure. Turn adjusting screw or change shims as necessary. When the lever is operated slowly (1-2 pumps per second) all nozzles should spray/chatter. However, the spray need not be even or well atomized.

Leakage test.
Operate lever until gauge indicates 20 bar (285 psi) below specified pressure. The nozzle does not leak if no drop of fuel falls from the nozzle in 10 seconds.

Chatter and spray pattern.
Close the gauge stopcock. Spray pattern is observed when the lever is pumped rapidly (4-6 per second.)
The pattern for pintle and throttle nozzles should be even and well atomized. For hole type nozzles, full and finely atomized.

Cleanliness is essential when testing. The test area should be free of dust and dirt. Only use clean diesel fuel or test oil.

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1987 300D (230,000 mi on a #14 head-watching the temp gauge and keeping the ghost in the machine)
Raleigh NC - Home of deep fried sushi!

Help please.

Looking for cheaper commercial alternative for members.

Diesel injector nozzle POP test pump
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=213112

I posted a pdf at the link.

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1987 300D (230,000 mi on a #14 head-watching the temp gauge and keeping the ghost in the machine)
Raleigh NC - Home of deep fried sushi!

I paid about $170 bucks for mine on eBay. It is a knockoff of the Bosch tester, made in India. A quick look didn't find one for sale today but some googling would probably turn one up.

Maybe?

http://www.fuelinjectionexports.com/nozzle-testers.htm

I'll be making on of these grease gun types of pop testers using the excellent information above. If anyone has a spare hard fuel line to sell, I have a post in the Parts section. Thanks, -noah

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1980 300D (non-turbo, 421k miles)
1984 300TD (turbo, 305k miles)
1985 Vanagon (170k miles)

My only comment is about the material in C.Sean Watts quotes which are like they are from the book.

When it talks about "flushing with rapid strokes" it says "close the line to the expensive gauge first"
Most people don't close the gauge off and they thrash the &^%(* out of the gauge.
It's really hard on them!

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Retired Marine Engineer
2005 E320 CDI
1987 300 Turbo Diesel @ 300,000 kM going
1974 240 D 300,K Miles when given away gone
1970 200 D gone
1969 190 D gone

email sent.

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83 300SD, Euro Delivery, Mesa Red, 275k, running strong & quick.

Stop Struggling and get free.

Hi guys, just wanted to chime in. A couple of years ago I was rebuilding my 617 and saw a picture and part # of a pop tester in the Mercedes 123 repair dvd so I wrote it down, called the stealer and they said it was $190. I went down and the know nothing kid who helped me took my money and said it was special order from Germany and non-refundable. About two weeks later I went down to pick up the part and to my disappointment the kid brought back a encyclopedia sized box and upon opening, it was revealed to be a diesel injector cleaning kit. It was a bunch of brass tools and tips specially designed to clean the carbon off of the pintle seat, injector bore and hole in tip. They finally gave my money back after I produced a pdf copy of the page in the dvd with the pop tester and its part # showing them I didn't make a mistake. With the effort some of you guys have made to make your own tester, I thought you would possibly be interested in this kit. I personally would spend $300 on injectors reconditioned by Bosch and not make a mess in the garage but I admire your ingenuity!

From what I observed where I used to work those Nozzle cleaning setups seldom work. The reason is that as carbon build up on the seating areas of the Pintel and the Spray Nozzle body the spring loaded Pintel beats up and down on those seating areas. This beats the deposits into the metal causing dents and pitting in the seating area.
If that was not enough the Fuel Presure itself going through the Spray Nozzle causes some eroding of the seating area and hole in the Spray Nozzle.
Because of the above scaping the Carbon out will not cure a damage seating area.
I also think an Ultrasonic Tank would do better job claning.

As a side note the place where I work bought a set up to regrind the seats and Pintels in Detroit Diesel Injector. The success rate was extremely poor due to the fact that the hammering of the Pintel as stated above damage/wore the seating areas so much that there was not enough meat available to grind through the defects. This resulted in my Boss giving up on the idea.

It may be that if you were willing to pull your Injectors out and Pull the Spray Nozzles of every so often to scrape out the Carbon as preventative maint maybe those tools would work for that.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

for new members.
.

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ASE Master Mechanic
asemastermechanic@juno.com

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
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Dynamometer.
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Technical Quality Auditor.
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1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

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