I am trying to plan a weekend front suspension rebuild. it is all baised around the fact that My 300 TD has 230K, and wears out the inside of the right front tire...

I know lower control arm mounts will be part of the operation. So there will be a spring compressor involved. That leads me to wounder if new springs would be the smart option, seeings how I dont want to take it apart twice. My questions revolve around the decisions based on what parts to order. Do I need new spring shims? Are they rubber? as Most of the rubber on the car is trashed. If I was to replace the springs, lower control arm mount, guide rod adjustment mount, and upper control arms, would that be a good beginning? The ball joints (I am told) are sound, and 'tight' enough to pass a safety inspection, so I would hope to avoid that part of the operation at the moment. It is looking like a 500.00 doller bill just in parts for the front and rear springs. That is Ok, just not looking to throw money around if the old parts are serviceable. Looking for some of your opinions and experience, as I HOPE to order parts by tomorow afternoon.
Thanks,
Jason

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46 WDX Power Wagon

84 300TDT daily driver

About 1 hear my tech and I, he did the hard stuff, rebuilt the front end, but did not replace the springs. I was very happy with the result. I think springs were just not worth the $$$ to replace. Pretty much everything else was, due the the degradation of the rubber. (However not bad for 27 years)

The front springs seem to last alot longer than the rear, so if the front looks good now, it may be many years before they need to be replaced. The spring shims are rubber over a metal core. They seem pretty tough, but they're also cheap (about $7 or $8 each). I'd probably replace them since I'd have the spring out anyway. Look at how many "bumps" yours has to see which ones you need. On the edge of the of the spring shim that points downward you'll see one, two, or three little bumps or tabs pointing down. One bump means 9.5mm, two means 14mm, and three means 19mm. As for the lower ball joints, they just about last forever as long as they have clean grease in them. You can regrease them (go synthetic) and replace just the rubber boot, and as long as there was no play to begin with, this will be just as good as a new ball joint. If your tie rod ends have no play, go ahead and replace the boots on them too and regrease them. Check your idler arm bushings, as these can go bad too. You'll also need the sway bar bushings for where the sway bar attaches to the upper control arm.

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1982 300D, black w/ palomino leather, 203K
2001 E320, champagne, 105K (Mom's)
1999 Dodge Dakota, squeaky & battered, 142K

Be sure to order new lock nuts for the tie rod ends and lower ball joints. The new upper cotrol arms should come with new lock nuts for the upper ball joints. These nuts have a nylon insert that holds the nut in place. In other words, it acts as a cotter pin. They are single use only, and should be replaced as a safety precaution.

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1982 300D, black w/ palomino leather, 203K
2001 E320, champagne, 105K (Mom's)
1999 Dodge Dakota, squeaky & battered, 142K

Thanks for the tips about saving the old springs, that is a good Idea. Rear springs get replaced though, hey they are cheaper anyway. Will go out and count the 'nubs' on the front springs to find out. what to order in that respect.
How would I go about re-greasing the ball/tie rod Joints? Just remove the old boot, and smear grease on it, then fill the boot with grease and reinstall??

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46 WDX Power Wagon

84 300TDT daily driver

Just to confirm:

The "nubs" will be on the rubber spring pads above the spring. They won't be on the spring itself.