Fuel pumps basicly work or they don't.......valve clearances do close up when hot...and on a tight valve when cold will hang open when hot....when he checks his valves we will see who is right.....IP's CAN fail but rarely do except when alternative fuel experiments are done by people who do not properly research before they hose their car up....

I'll chime in here:

Things to check first -- valve adjustment (not expensive, but it HAS to be done), condition of hand pump (if it's the screw down type, replace it with the sealed type), suction side hoses, and fuel screen in the tank.

The key is that it slows way down warm -- ie, after it's been running a while. You cannot really clean the screen, replace it. If the problem is worse with a low tank, for sure it's algae. Pressure washer may not cure the problem, you need algicide (marine supply stores have it, if not use a bottle of Redline, the whole thing in one tank), and change filters again.

If the power loss happens only with a hot engine (after running a while) it has to be valves going open, tranny stuck in 2nd (or third!), or a fuel restriction.

Try holding the kickdown switch down until you have to let up to avoid the car in front (hehe!) and see if it's shifting properly. It should, I think, sit in 2nd gear and downshift immediately into first when you press down on the pedal. You can test this by starting off in 2 -- it will start in first and upshift to 2nd that way. If you get normal performance, it's the downshift adjustment or the tranny modulator -- most likely the modulator at this point.

You should also check the chain for stretch and injection timing as well, although you won't get horrible performance if they are off.

0-60 times are around 19-20 sec, not horrible, just watch what you pull out in front of.....

Peter