noise
 

if you didnt have the noise before you did the things i think i heard yoiu say you did, it sounds to me as if nothing you have done would cause any mechanical damage... so worrying along those lines i think is unproductive.

did you do anything with the injectors? i had lots of horrible sounding noises with my 350 that turned out to be first missing seals at the base of the injectors and then loose injectors.

i have not experienced any noise with the hydraulic tappit adjusters on my diesel but on my 500sec i have one that makes noise with fresh oil if it is 15w40. if i use mobil one it makes no noise. this is a tapping that is annoying but not scarily loud.

I did not touch the fuel injectors or lines. Before I changed the fuel filter the tapping sound was not as loud, but I think revving the engine while I was trying to get the engine to start may have hastened the demise of the bad lifter(s). The noise was always there, just not as loud. The noise seems to be more metallic in nature, and it is the loudest around cylinder 2 at the valve cover.

I typically don't like driving a vehicle when something doesn't sound right.

-Steve

Update:

I decided to let the my 1987 300TDT (w/ OM603.960 engine) sit for a few days, and then I drove it around for a few miles at freeway speeds. The loud tapping noise went away so I guess that noise must have been air in the injectors which occurred after I replaced the large fuel filter? Would air in the injector lines cause a loud tapping?

After the loud tapping noise went away, there was still a faint tapping noise audible at idle even after the engine warmed up. I already had ordered the lifters, so I went ahead and replaced all 12 lifters and the faint tapping noise is still there. Before I replaced the lifters, I didn't find any squishy ones, but since the engine has 185K on it I went ahead and replaced the lifters. I guess I'm all out of ideas now on what could be causing the noise. It's not really loud, but it is noticeable. I am assuming that normally there is just the diesel knocking sound when the engine runs, and no tapping.

Do the injectors make any sort of faint tapping/ticking during normal operation?

Thanks,

-Steve

Injectors themselves shouldn't make any noticeable clicking noises, but the IP can, in one of my 617's it has a tiny click but I never noticed that sound on my 603 engine (even without the hood insulation).
Using a listening device like this might help:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=4563669349&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

PS I just ordered a set of lifters for my '87 (not the daily driver, another project car) with 260K miles on them, I'd be gambling if not replacing them while the head is apart.

yeah
 

it may be a normal sound. i think that the vac pump makes a sound or perhaps the ac comp. after having a scare we all tend to listen more intently. perhaps this is what you are doing.

tom w

i know this sounds confusing....but I imagine you are suggesting that the fitting where the line attaches to the injector be loosened allowing air to escape.
I must ask though, how many of you guys do this alone? Do you have a remote starter button and if so, where do you feel is best to connect?



Fuel T-stat? What does it look like? Does anyone remove this?
And what is a Cum Fitting?



I am diagnosing a 'no start' condition with an 87 300TD. Ran fine, parked on the flat, week later, no start. I get a 'pop' maybe from one cylinder trying, but thats it. Was hoping to see priming procedure here. No luck yet. Will try opening lines while helper cranks.

Battery is fully charged.

there is a junction block right in front of the battery, follow the positive cable, it connects to it.
jump the positive cable with the wire next to it, and you will get a crank.
if you have a remote starter switch, connect it there, (like 7.00 at autozoo)

I do it alone. No remote starter. Loosen all the lines, crank for 10 seconds, tighten the fittings that are wet, lather, rinse, repeat. When at least 4 lines are wet and tight, the engine will stay running on its own.

It's an aluminum cylinder sitting on the driver side engine mount arms. Follow the fuel line from the small filter to the plastic end piece of the thermostat that's also the fuel inlet fitting for the fuel thermostat.

Other no start suspects include stuck IP fuel return check valve and clogged oxidation catalyst. To check the fuel return check valve, pinch the line from the big fuel filter back to the tank. If the engine starts, the check valve is stuck open. To check for a clogged cat, remove the plug on the #1 exhaust runner that takes a 17mm socket. If the engine starts, the cat is probably clogged.

Sixto
87 300D