I have an '83 300D and none of the four power windows will roll down. I bought this car with this problem back in April, and now since it's getting warmer the car has become an oven. Fortunately, the sunroof still works (sort of). I was directed to the "ice cube relay" behind the instrument panel in a related thread, but was unable to get any more information. Any ideas?

I sure would make sure the air conditioning is up to scratch. Get a wiring diagram as unlikely to normally have mechanical/electrical failure of all windows I would think. Locate the primary power feed or feeders and work back as sounds like you are not getting any power to the electric window circuits at all. You have looked to make sure someone did not remove the applicable fuses or relays or that the fuses are not blown? Talking to the previous owner may shed a little bit of information as well. Get a test light or cheap digital meter. If you do not feel too confident around auto electric perhaps you have a friend with more experience that could give you a hand. Should not turn out to be too bad. Your right of course its getting tough to drive around in a goldfish bowl as the weather continues to warm. The total failure of all windows is a little strange as I think they are on two different electrical circuits. Anything common if any to the two circuits on the electrical diagram becomes an immediate suspect to check out.Not a lot of help but by observing the color of the wires coming off the power window fuses, making sure they have 12v and picking it up with a test light or meter as it goes along you should hopefully find out where you are loosing the 12v source.. I fully understand that some people are not comforatable with electrical problems as well and thats why I though about suggesting the involvement of a friend.

sometimes they just stick from sitting... gluelike. if nothing at all happens when you push button it may be fuses. i believe that there are some obscure fuses under the consol that can blow. swithces also go bad but prob not all at once. sometimes they can be rejuvinated with electrical cleaner sprayed carefully aroung the edges of the switch. of course also check the fuses in the normal place. also the motors sometimes stick from sitting. this requires removal of the door panel and manual cleaning of the motor. aside from all of the above the motors are pretty long lived and cleaning of the various bits often fixes them.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Is the window lock button supposed to lock out all window operation or just the two rear windows?

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1961 190Db retired
1968 220D/8 325,000
1983 300D 164,150

rear only. sorry.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Easy to test if they are stuck or not getting power. Leave the car off, but turn the ignition on so that the accessorys are getting power and turn on the interior light. Then push the window buttens and see if the light dims.

The window lock-out only locks out the rear window switches. The switches for the rear windows up front always work.

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Adam Lumsden
(83) 300D
Vice-President of the MBCA International Stars Section

Thanks for the ideas. I'll check the fuse again. The guy I bought it from had checked the fuse and even pulled the middle console apart ( I can see where he put in his own screws to re-attach the wood) but had no luck with the switches. I'll also check and see if the interior light dims when I just run the electrical.

Anyone know anything about the climate controls? Will the vents always blow hot air if your a/c doesn't work? I figure it could at least blow in some cooler air from outside rather than hot air from the engine (?).

Not familiar enough with these cars yet but have picked up that they have a problem with the hot water on/off valve.Repair kit is available. Also could be some sort of malfunction of the main climate control system not activating the solenoid that controls this valve. Looking at prior posts in archives may give you some ideal. Plus has a separate electric motor to push water through the heater loop. I might remove plug from that electric motor if it is running and take two small pieces of wood plus my vice grips and close off one of the heater hoses to verify that hot water is indeed circulating or not but suspect it is. Really starting to feel the need to own a set of manuals for these cars myself. Let's see if have this straight. You have a car that the windows will not go down. Heat might be on. Air conditioning may or may not be working and summer is coming. Boy are you going to loose weight. Hope you have a sunroof that opens.

Thanks for the insight everyone.

I live in Illinois now but grew up in North Carolina, so I can take the heat if I can at least get the windows down. Luckily the sunroof opens with some help, but I think that the windows would help a lot more with the heat situation. Luckily fiancee is small and from California, but she can only take so much heat herself. Dog can't go for rides much to his dismay b/c he's shaggy and almost all black; he drools everywhere.

Anyone know anything about ice cube relays? Anyone else had similar problems with power windows on a W123?

Had the same problem with a 82 300D, none of the windows would work. The ice cube relay is behind the instrument cluster on a metal plate that holds up the steering column, directly in the middle of the area behind the cluster. I think (it's been a long time) the cluster must be removed to access it. BE GENTLE! the oil pressure line will also need to be removed (I think, don't really remember) from the back of the cluster to reach the 'ice cube relay'. Not really a big deal. My instruement cluster just slipped out with a little persuassion, but I've heard others had to rig a simple, home-made tool to release some clips (the ones that weren't holding anything on mine.) to dislodge the cluster. I can't remember where I got the part (fastlane maybe?). But that was the cure. Good Luck.

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82 300D Turbo 124,000 mi.

I had that problem except my windows were stuck down--not a good idea in my neighborhood. I checked the fuse, then checked the master motor for conductivity in the drivers side door. All was good. The problem lay in the master (driver) switch. I pried out the switch from the console and gave it a shake. It rattled. I took it apart, cleaned off the contacts with some mineral spirits and reassembled the switch. It worked like new. I did that with all the other switches and haven't had a problem since. I thought my mechanic was going to choke when I told him what I did.

My babies:
1976 450SEL "Georgeous George"
1982 300TDT "Mr. Speedy" - for obvious reasons.

I pulled out the instrument cluster without an issue and found the relay right in the middle. I pulled it out and will replace with it. Fastlane has the part, P2020-25016. I accidently ordered the wrong part and now have to wait to get the right one.

The relay worked!

My 300DT has had the problem for a long time and there are only 2 fuses that are applicable (no.s I dont remember) but they control all 4 windows.

You can't just check the fuses that they are good, you have to make sure they are making good contact in the fuse holder! Rotate them and rotate them..having two people helping is helpful. As you are rotating them, have someone else hold down the buttons. This is what I did and it worked well and found that the fuse contacts are oxidized and made the difference.

I posted a similar thread and using something metal to scrape away a little metal until shiney helps.

Also, found one time that if you are having a problem w/the directionals working, that the emergency flasher button was severly corroded and prohibited the directionals from working?? This may have been a New England problem but perhaps not. Anyway, replacing the emergency flasher button cleared the problem up.

I have a 91 350 SD which I'm lucky to say runs great, but all of a sudden none of the windows work. Fuses are ok and VO meter held on the top of each fuse's holder reads 14v. I had removed the little bucket below the ash tray and added some new wiring in that area for the vegetable oil conversion switches, but had not revealed the window switches or removed that panel with the shift lever plate.

I have read about ice cube relays, but cannot locate it. Fuse box or under dash? Any other central controls? Everything else on the car still works as far as I can tell (cruise, lights, etc). I held the window buttons while wiggling all the wires I could find, including the wires coming from the individual switches - no response from windows at all.

Thanks for any advice out there