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  #1  
Old 06-02-2005, 09:44 PM
george_hannah's Avatar
The Diesel Guy
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Chadds Ford, PA
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Labor for subframe bushings for SDL

Hi Friends,

Does anybody know what the labor cost would be to have new subframe bushings and a differential mount installed on a SDL? Ballpark estimates are fine.

Thanks,

George

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  #2  
Old 06-02-2005, 09:57 PM
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I did my subframe bushings in a bit over an hour. I would say maybe 2 hours for everything. Maybe 3 if you take your time.
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  #3  
Old 06-02-2005, 11:04 PM
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I was quoted 3 hours PER SIDE at a local MB independant (been in business 60 years, father son type place) so I'm guessing thats book rate. I did both of mine in about 2-3 hours as I'm a very slow worker and ran into a decent problem my inexperienced self didn't know how to handle at the time....

HTH

John
'79 300SD
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  #4  
Old 06-03-2005, 12:22 AM
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I agree.

Once you have the vehicle up on jacks, it should take about three hours of so.

Some of the dealers are a ripoff, as usual.
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  #5  
Old 06-03-2005, 12:41 AM
WANT '71 280SEL's Avatar
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Did you guys use a bolt with washers and a nut to pull the old subframe bushings out? I assume we're talking about the rear ones?

Thanks
David
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  #6  
Old 06-03-2005, 12:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WANT '71 280SEL
Did you guys use a bolt with washers and a nut to pull the old subframe bushings out? I assume we're talking about the rear ones?
I just used a flatbar and a hammer. Not much of a lip to grab at the bottom of the bushing, but, you can get it started on down after 20 or 30 hits. Once it starts, just alternate hits from side to side and it will move right on down.
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  #7  
Old 06-03-2005, 10:51 PM
Tymbrymi's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WANT '71 280SEL
Did you guys use a bolt with washers and a nut to pull the old subframe bushings out? I assume we're talking about the rear ones?
The Ritter/Easley method? I did that the first time... I have to do it again on my other W116 and am probably just going to use a bolt in the center and a two or three arm puller (grab the metal lip around the edge of the bushing). The bolt would be to give the puller something to push against.

I did the Ritter method the first time and the center metal wedge that the washers push against fell out on one side. Had to do the above method using the big honkin bolt that normally goes there. Next time will use some other bolt to avoid risk of damage to the big bolt.

HTH

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