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  #1  
Old 06-09-2005, 12:50 AM
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Oil change inquiry

I believe I will do my own oil change soon. I know how to do it, the whole procedure and all. I've observed it being done up close, read many threads and the Haynes manual, and here's my questions.
1. Do I need to replace any gaskets? I know I'll replace the gasket on the oil filter housing cover, but are there any others? Perhaps the drain plug?
2. Is it absolutely necessary to jack the car up to drain the oil? Can I do it without placing it on jacks?
Thanks,
-Joe

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Old 06-09-2005, 01:10 AM
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Its a really easy job. I just did mine a couple of hours ago. Its the third time I've done it and it took me less than ten minutes. I drove to town and back and drained it as soon as I got back so the oil would be nice and hot and all drain out. The only gasket that needs replaced is the one that comes with the filter. I'm not even sure if my drain plug has a gasket on it anymore. I think I might have lost the little washer on my first change but it doensn't leak a drop from the plug. The most difficult part of the job, imho, is lining up the long bolt on the filter cap and the filter with that hole in the bottom of the canister. Don't ask what brand of oil lest ye open that can of worms.....
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  #3  
Old 06-09-2005, 01:14 AM
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Just be careful of....hot oil....you are going to warm the engine up first aren't you ?

Also, when getting the filter out, don't rest yourself on the vac' nipples to the trans and pump near the brake booster..they get brittle.

Make sure you don't pull the vac' hose off the 'stop' capsule at the back of the pump.

If everything is working properly now...take a photo or two or draw a diagram of the vac hose routing.....I often get cars here from the quick/jiffy place that won't turn off, or other vac' related problems.

If you get a OEM filter you'll get the copper washers and an 'O' ring.
You will have to ask for the two small 'O' rings for the top cap filter guide pipe.
These install at the bottom of the pipe and go hard from heat/use/time.

The copper washers are for the oil pan drain plug....NOT the top of the filter as many come in with ....

With a low profile oil bucket you could drain without lifting the car.....most times you will need to lift one side to get it to drain completely.( 13mm drain plug wrench.)

Some fussy people actually go to the job of draining the oil cooler.....some do have drain plugs in them....most do not.

Next problem is disposale of your waste oil.....

Of course....you could always come and see me...
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Old 06-09-2005, 01:18 AM
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Then there is the topsider. A small pump that sucks the oil out thru the dipstick tube. Very effective, although there are going to be those who say its better to have a look at things underneath the engine, as the oil is being drained the conventional way (out the drain hole)
I have recently switched over to the topsider, I built my own and can say I still will use the drain plug method once in a while, when I feel like lying down on the job
Either way, drain it hot and drain it often.
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  #5  
Old 06-09-2005, 06:44 AM
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jacking off

the car can be run onto something like pieces of 2x4 and that will give enough clearance for a normal oil drain can.
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  #6  
Old 06-09-2005, 07:43 AM
cmichalik
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[QUOTE=dkveuro]Next problem is disposale of your waste oil.....
QUOTE]

I usually take my oil to Autozone and dump it in the oil recycle bin. It's a no charge. The other option that I have is putting it on hte curb for my city garbage truck to pick up. I think it's first pick-up of the month they take used motor oil for recycling.

Have fun.
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Old 06-09-2005, 12:10 PM
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Yellow Check Valve

Definately be careful of those vacuum lines by the filter housing. The first time I changed my oil I broke the end off of that yellow check valve and had to stop it manually and live with rough shifts and no locks for a week while I waited for a replacement part. I really learned my lesson on that one. Oil disposal isn't that big of a problem. Since they seem to be everywhere, your local Wal-Mart should take it. Go to automotive and they'll make you fill out this short form then take you out back and show you where to dumb it. No big deal. I drive mine up on 2x6's supported with several chunks of wood. More than enough clearance to change the oil and other stuff.
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1984 300D 225K
1985 300D Donor body
1985 300D Turbo 165K. Totaled. Donor Engine. It runs!!!
1980 300SD 311K My New Baby.
1979 BMW 633csi 62K+++? Dead odo
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Old 06-09-2005, 01:10 PM
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I know to change it hot and often, and I already have experience with the vacuum tubes, my indy's assistant knocked one loose during the last oil change and the car wouldn't shut off. I took a look under the hood, and I got it back on the tube a few days later. Can I get a topside extractor from a "McParts" store? I'm afraid of getting under cars jacked up to one side, since I only have the spare tire jack, I'm not going to chance it.
-Joe
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  #9  
Old 06-09-2005, 01:13 PM
cmichalik
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A topside extractor isn't neccessary and neither is jacking up the vehicle. Just look under from the front of the car and you should be able to see the drain plug. It's pretty easy to reach unless your like a few friends of mine who are 4 foot nothing and have short arms.
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  #10  
Old 06-09-2005, 02:59 PM
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in the later MB's there is a bottom cover panel that precludes doing anything until its removed, and that is a PITA with the low clearance and all the screws holding it in makes an oil change a much more lengthy process, hence the topsider.
I had a problem accepting the idea until I made one up and started using it. I use thick teflon hose (I used thick walled teflon instead of a regular plastic because I wanted something I could use on HOT oil without melting). I can stick the pickup hose into the filter cannister and get the oil down in there too, which was done previously using a rag, a messy proposition and may leave fibers behind.
The dealerships are all using the suckout method, with a huge roll around container that I believe uses compressed air to generate vacuum, its an easy way to eliminate spills
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  #11  
Old 06-09-2005, 03:35 PM
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I've always wondered why there are 2 metal washers included in the oil filter pack?
I always drain from the bottom and then use a very large syringe to pull out every last drop of oil I can from the oil pan drain. I usually get another 1/2 quart or more when drawing oil out of the pan with a syringe.
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  #12  
Old 06-09-2005, 10:25 PM
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pans

personally i would not use a suck out method. i believe the pan is a place for dirt to collect and draining it will carry some of it away. with a suction it will build up. the newer cars with the belly pan are more trouble, true but i like the security of looking at the stuff in the bottom of the pan.

the copper washers are for the drain plug. there are two i assume because all drain plugs are not created equal.
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #13  
Old 06-09-2005, 11:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H-townbenzoboy
I know to change it hot and often, and I already have experience with the vacuum tubes, my indy's assistant knocked one loose during the last oil change and the car wouldn't shut off. I took a look under the hood, and I got it back on the tube a few days later. Can I get a topside extractor from a "McParts" store? I'm afraid of getting under cars jacked up to one side, since I only have the spare tire jack, I'm not going to chance it.
-Joe
Just get a shallow drain pan and go at it from the front of the vehicle. I've never put these up in the air to drain the oil.

I usually remove the drain plug and let it drain overnight.

I also crack the lower cooler line and let it drain overnight as well, but I strongly discourage you from trying this due to risk.
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  #14  
Old 06-09-2005, 11:13 PM
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would a block heater suffice as a heating tool when draining the oil?
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  #15  
Old 06-09-2005, 11:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lietuviai
I've always wondered why there are 2 metal washers included in the oil filter pack?
........................................................
The oil filter fits more than one motor....takes care of two sizes of drain plug.

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