I posted this in another section and was told I should put it in here...

So, I've been searching for a good second car for me to drive every so often. Probibly 1-3 times a week, 60miles round trip, when my fiance needs our other car. I want to find something in the $3,000 range. What I don't want is a boring car, I definately want something with caractor... Also i will drive it in the winter, on nice days. My fiance doesn't do snow, so I'll be driving the element on those days

So, in my searching I discovered that the 1978-1985 300D/CD/TD seem to fall into my price range. It seems to fit the bill, but I don't know, I've never driven one. I've just heard they're very well built and run forever. I also remember years ago seeing someone pull up in one(a wagon) and i heard the door close with that heavy "thunk" I was impressed. I'm leaning more towards the coupe, with the sedan a close second. Of course I would not pass up a good deal on a clean wagon either I'm figuring I'd be a tad happyer with a newer(80's) one with a turbo diesel.

So those that have 'em, what's your opinion, good occational use car? How difficult is it to start when it's really cold out? is it do able without a block heater(no power in the garage) when it's say, -10F? Anything elce I should know?

Last, anyone know of any for sale in Maine? or if you have one and live in the area would you be willing to show off yer car to me so i can see one up close and personal to see if it's the right car for me? I'd love to find one sooner rather than later. but I don't need anything right away, I just got new brakes, full tune up and had the axle beam repaired on my ghia so I'll be crusing around in that as much as I can this summer So I can take some time to find the perfict one.

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2003 VW Passat GLS 1.8t wagon 73k mi
1998 Dodge Dakota Sport 228k mi
1974 VW Karmann Ghia Coupe 74k mi (for sale)

As with anything, you get what you pay for. When you say your price range is $3000, then you won't be getting a mint condition, garaged, low mileage Mercedes. You'll be getting a so-so to good one (depending on your buying skills) that may or may not have issues at present and probably will shortly in the future. That's not to say major engine problems, although it's possible, but problems, maybe vacuum, maybe cooling, maybe transmission, driveline, brakes, etc. Hell, just look at this forum and you'll see what I mean.

These are 20+ year old cars, and while they are very sturdily and well built, how long they run is directly affected by how well they are/have been maintained.

I'm not trying to discourage you from buying a benz diesel whatsoever. I own a 300coupe diesel turbo (83) and I'm more than satisfied with its performance, driveability, and endurance. However, I have put maybe $2000 into fixing it with much more down the road. It is a fairly low mileage car, although the previous owner was somewhat neglectful of cosmetics, they weren't of the drivetrain. I think it's a great car and I plan to drive it as long as I reasonably can. If the car is just for you to drive (no passengers), get a turbo coupe instead of a sedan. They look better and they're more fun (my opinion), and you have 2 less doors to fix problems in . Get a turbo.

All I'm trying to say is, if you're not interested in putting a decent amount of money into the car and doing it yourself, or putting a huge amount of money into the car and having someone else do it, then you don't want to get a benz diesel in the $3000 range. These are not invincible cars, they are only as good as what is put into them time and moneywise.

Hope this helps, and doesn't discourage you from getting one of these cars. They're great, just not for the mechanically or monitarily faint of heart.

Oh yeah, just reread your post and realized I forgot to reply to your question about the cold.

Unless the previous owner has record of it being done in the past two years you'd want to replace the glow plugs (minimal expense, relatively easy) and check the GP relay for problems. Given good plugs and good compression, you probably wouldn't have too much trouble starting it in the cold. -15F, don't know about, I live in FL. The coldest I've ever started in is maybe teens+, but it cranks right up.

Anything else you should know...
check any potential purchase extensively for rust if you live in Maine. Look for rust at jack hole points, wheel wells, under floorboards, firewall, sunroof area, trunk in and out. You might even consider making a pilgrimage to a SouthWestern state to find a nice, rust-free car.
Have a compression test done, you're looking for:
375-425+: Very Good engine, if this car costs around $3000, get it.
300-375: Good, not much to worry about.
225-300: eh, look around some more
225-0: walk away
See if when you turn the key to off the engine goes off right away. If it doesn't, this indicates leakage somewhere in the vacuum system. This can be a PITA to locate.

They are great little cars.

As to the 617 it is a good engine, I prefer the newer 603 though.

They key to winter starting is to make sure everything is in top shape glow plugs, compression, battery, starter, synthetic oil ect. If the car is in good shape it will start. I would also plug it in.

Condition and maintaince history is everything. Ignore the odometer to a point. Also since you are in New England rust will be an issue. Look for it in the usual spots. MB's like to rust out under the rear glass, around the sway bar mounts, and under the battery. Jack points are another trouble spot.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

INsane,

You can forget about reliable starting below 10*F without being able to plug in the block heater. This is not the type of car you want for cold weather driving. At temperatures below 0*F, you might have trouble with the fuel gelling. This is one situation where you will be better off with a gasoline powered car.

Maybe you could run a wire to the garage to preheat the engine in cold weather. Heat is the only thing that will get a cold Diesel started.

P E H

I was in Walmart in Binghamton NY 28 JUN 05 and Mobil 1 and Mobil 1 Truck and SUV oil was selling for $3.74 a quart.

That single quart price was lower per quart than Mobil 1 selling in 5 quart jugs.
Here's your chance to stock up.

What is the Mobil Extended Performance oil? It was much more expensive. It is supposed to be good for 15,000 miles.

P E H

Good information so far.

As far as some stuff goes, I do realize these cars are 20+ years old and are going to have issues. I already have a very good shop I go to with my Ghia, they do work on Mercedes there. It's seriously the best shop I've ever been to for quality of service and customer service, these guys have gone out of their way for me more than once. Plus, I am pritty handy my self and know the limits of my ability. So I'm good there, I gemerally leave about $1,000/yr or so for repairs outside normal mantinance. Though my 92 Passat blew that budget to hell last year due to extreamly poor mantinance by a previous owner (one example: they JBwelded the waterpump studs back together after they were broken off in the block!)

Which leads me to the second bit, I am willing to wait to find a Mercedes that has been properly maintained. I'm doing my very best not to go impulse buy one.

As for the cold weather, I guess I'll have to look into something to get a little power out to the garage for that. Whith the added bonus of being able to use the electric start on the snow blower. (though it always starts on the first pull...) Or just plan on not driving it when it's super cold out...

any hoo, keep the advice coming, it really is very helpful. Thanks!

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2003 VW Passat GLS 1.8t wagon 73k mi
1998 Dodge Dakota Sport 228k mi
1974 VW Karmann Ghia Coupe 74k mi (for sale)

I fired off my SDL without a block heater on a few 0 and negative mornings. Coldest was -2ish, after the light went off I cranked and she came to life pretty much right away. Skipped and smoked a bit but she fired right away. My friends much newer E300D starts like a gas car. I also used Power Service all winter and have had zero gelling problems.

A diesel in good condition will start. Also the newer engines are better in the winter. I only plugged my car in because you get heat faster and it is better for the engine.

A MB will probably test or break that $1k a year budget.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

The 123 is a great car...u need a block heater if your going to be in extreme temperatures...it's just chancey without one...Would you put your dog out in the 10 F. temperatures and expect him to jump up and run over to you every morning for a pat on the back? You'd be better off getting a horse...but no try the 1984-85 300 Turbo Diesel there good...You need to take into consideration that with 20+ years there will be issues and up keep..count on it.

first, there is no better car on the planet then the 300sd there is one in greese with 7 million miles on it.... and its in the genis book of records...

second, if you can get one without rust, and with a good interior thats really all you need to worry about... you can rebuild engines and trannys...


garage kept rust free body,

good interior... remember its 23 years old...

then if the engine and everything else works then youve got a gem..

[QUOTE=blueranger]first, there is no better car on the planet then the 300sd there is one in greese with 7 million miles on it.... and its in the genis book of records...

[QUOTE]

Its been posted here. Actually it is a taxi, maybe a 220D? I don't know the model number off the top of my head but it wasn't a W123. Also it has over a million miles not 7 mill.

I don't care how long people claim they last that, doesn't mean much. I have seen plently of beat shot 200k mile MB's. Heck I parted one with 170k on it.

Back on topic, search this site. You will learn a lot and know what to look for.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

As for the cold starting....I'm going to add a blockheater (hopefully) to mine for this winter to make sure I can get it started easily.....mines generally fine down even to -5 to -8 or so, but it was -12 and I had a semi-weak battery so I stood no chance. Once I poured hot water over the block for a few minutes with a new battery I was good to go

Our 83 started when it was 7 degrees in Mackinac City waaay up north with 2 glow plugs working....after over 50 seconds of continuous cranking!! We were rooting for it....it was like a scene from "Das Boat"

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)