the cruise control box under the dash is being a butthead and i cannot under any ammount of pressure unscrew the two retaining screws(i dont even think i can get to the back one by all the wires)

tips would be greatly appreciated, i think i have the right box(?) because i unhooked it and now the car will not accelerate when i push/pull/click the stalk on the wheel. i have heard this is most likely my problem because the cruise will accelerate, but not hold speed.

how did you guys(gals) get yours out?

There is a bolt further up and back (10mm) that holds the bracket that the amp is screwed to. That may be easier to get off. There is another module attached to the bracket that will need to be disconnected prior to removal. not sure what that is for. Also it may be easier to remove it if you pull the instrument cluster (a bit more extreme though) depends on the level of pain you are willing to endure.

__________________
Dean

Try a ratchet drive with the proper bit - if it's not too bunged up yet.

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1984 300Sd 210k

Former cars:
1984 300D 445k (!!) (Strider) Original (and not rebuilt) engine and transmission. Currently running on V80 ( 80% vegetable oil, 20% petroleum products). Actually not, taking a WVO break.
1993 300d 2.5 275k. Current 120/day commuter
1981 300SD 188k (Hans) Killed by a deer

i pulled the unit after i read somewhere that there was a bolt instead of the screws, i still cannot get the screws off, but the amp is out of the car.

the problem i am having now is that the amp(from a 79 model car, original) seems to have brass solder or some type of yellow coating allover it and it just about refuses to melt!

hints?

Your soldering iron should be able to penetrate the conformal coating used to protect the board.

Smells bad, but just solder right through it.

I have done gads of these boxes of all ages and this is what I do.

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1984 300D Turbo - 4-speed manual conversion, mid-level resto

1983 300D - parts car

1979 300TD Auto - Parts car.

1985 300D Auto - Wrecked/Parts.


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"If you don't know where you are going, any road will get you there". Lewis Carrol

An alternative is to spray some gumout carb cleaner on the conformal coating to dissolve it. Then use a tooth brush or brass wire brush (somewhat soft) and alternate using the cleaner and brushing off the coating. Then you will have a clean joint to re-solder

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Dean