In case you didn't know brake lines are supposed to be double flared.
If that bubble tool does that then nevermind. I never heard of one of them before.

Danny

You need two spring compressors, a catchers mask, a Kevlar vest and a wiffel ball bat. ;) The easiest way is to put the car up on jack stands and lower the sub-frame. That's how I did it on my SD. By the time you take loose the shocks there is no compression on the springs at all.

Here are a couple of pictures of the rear suspension out of the car. Notice the top of the coil spring is not pushing on anything. Replacing the subframe will be difficult. Keeping the coil springs aligned and evenly compressing will be the trick.
This is for the TD so it shows the struts not the shocks.

Dave

Say what, Dave?? :confused:

The top of the coil spring supports the body, until you lower the subframe sufficiently to completely unload the spring. Probably another 3 inches or so.

Metric Bubble Flare Tool
 

dannym,

The type of brake line flare used on the MB is a European "Bubble" flare that is formed in a single swaging operation. I needed to buy the tool designed specifically to form this flare. My standard SAE flaring tool does indeed require a two step operation to swage the "double" flare but this type end will not work with MB brake components.

I have new fuel and brake lines
 

Skull,

This is a job that I planned to do on my 85 sedan but never did it. I now have an 84 wagon, and fuel lines are different. I have brand new pre-bent green OE factory fuel lines and some OE green brake lines (I can't remember which brake lines) and some of the brackets and rubber bushings....all of which I never installed. I can't remember what I paid for them, but I wouldn't ask much. Let me know if you are interested.

Mark

(I'm in Boston, and travel to CT regularly)

I didn't realize you were in CT.

I travel to CT every week (Newington) to my machine shops.

If you want, you can meet me and rent the compressor for $30. Right now it's out in Indiana but should return in a couple of weeks.

It's far less risky with the correct tool.

Brian,

I really appreciate the offer of the spring compressor. I think the work you are doing to make tools available to forum members is both a great idea and commendable. If I was just doing the trailing arms or the lower control arm bushings in the front, I would take you up on the offer. (I already did my entire front suspension system, including the LCA bushings.) Despite the apparent universal opinion that removing the subframe/trailing arm/differential assembly without the use of a spring compressor is insane/dangerous/stupid, I prefer the approach I previously outlined. I believe the extension of the trailing arms with the shocks removed will leave the springs in a near fully extended condition. I have a plan that I'm convinced will permit easy and safe removal and reassembly. I will explain the details, along with both positive and negative aspects, after I've finished the job.

MarkM,

I sent you a PM about your offer of the parts. Thanks.

Tim

what I meant to say :eek:

The top of the springs are , as you said, against the spring receivers. So dropping the assembly and then trying to position it and get it to mate just right while compressing the springs is going to be very difficult.

Yea! that's what I meant to say

Dave

Has anyone heard from Scull??? :confused:

I have fuel lines to install and am slowely collecting my thoughts on how to go about this. I am keen on removing all of the whole shebang and renewing rubber parts and rust proofing the trailing arms etc. At quick glance it looks like 2 spring compressors would be the way to approach this but am eager to hear all manners and means.

brake line supplier
 

Has anybody ever heard of Fedhillusa.com? They have an alloy tubing system that is cheaper than stainless & easier to work with. They also rent the metric double bubble flare tool. I think that's the route I'm going to take. It's alot of work to pull apart the entire back of the car to replace with steel lines. Also, one of my trailing arms rotted. Can you believe that? Paul.
'84 300CD restoring.

:eek: on a new car like an '84 too! :D I intend to ferry my family around in this car and if I get it back togehter before they are driving their own cars :rolleyes: (kids are currently 6&8) I want to have every confidence in its reliability/safety...

Rob, I presume that you wish to remove the subframe, in it's entirety?

If so, then one spring compressor is needed to remove the springs.

The axles are removed and the calipers are removed.

The subframe is held at three points. Two at the subframe bushings up forward and one at the differential mount at the rear.

The only difficulty is lowering the subframe safely. Due to its triangular configuration, you probably need three supporting jacks. The subframe is fairly heavy, especially with the diff attached.

I've never fully lowered these. Maybe someone who has done it can comment.

Yup that's my intent....I've just started gazaing into this and would like to take advantage of the dissassembled state to replace & rehab any other appropriate components - while I'm in the neighborhood.....Currently the car is on 4 jack stands and the fuel tank is out, the exhaust is off from the down pipe back and Now is about the time for me to start assembling all the bits and pieces for the work...

I would LOVE to hear some comments from some folks who have done it!!!