I bought a very nice aftermarket hood pad from a guy on Ebay via a mercedesshop member recommendation, but I'm having trouble attaching it. The seller suggested using a 'Liquid Nails' type product, but it didn't even come close to working. So, I'm gonna have to scrape it off and try something else. Plus, it says that it is extremely flammable. Doesn't seem like a smart product to put over a hot engine-even if the hood pad provides a layer.
What would you use?
Thanks.

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1982 Silver 300DT

Use the search on this site. There has been reems of discussion on this topic.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=69400&highlight=8090

Always now use DAP made by WELDWOOD.

ACE Hardware has it.
32 oz can Contact Cement.
You'll use about half the can.

Use a cheap 2inch paint brush....Follow instruction on can !

The pad should have a notch in the front edge, this is center.
Failing that, mark the point of center with tape or White Out.

FYI......
Wear disposable gloves.
Cover engine bay with old sheet.
Do not apply glue in enclosed space.



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__________________
[http://languageandgrammar.com/2008/01/14/youve-got-problems-not-issues/ ]

"A liberal is someone who feels they owe a great debt to their fellow man, which debt he proposes to pay off with your money."

I just did this exact job the day before yesterday. I used Ace Hardware Extra Strength Spray Adhesive and sprayed it liberally both on the backside of the pad and on the hood metal. It worked VERY well, unfortunately it is 16.99 a can.
But it's worth it. Just make sure to use it LIBERALLY. Use a respirator if you've got one, that stuff will kill brain cells like nothing. Also, when you're putting it on, press it on one side and then work across, pressing as you go to avoid crinkling it. You'll mess up the bond if you pull it up and press it down again. That pad makes so much difference in heat absorbtion, noise, etc. I had been running w/o one for awhile and the old one was so decayed it was basically nonexistant. The hood even closes with a more satisfying thunk .

3M Trim Adhesive 8090 resist's the engine heat.

Ok, correct me if I'm wrong:
Leathermang was kind enough to pm me with some suggestions. Here's what I'll do:
1) Strip the old adhesive off with a spun plastic/steel wool like pad (not steel, plastic). I happen to have one of those cordless Black and Decker battery powered scrub busters with one of those exact attachments.
2) Use a glue remover like 3M's glue remover to remove the glue (did I use 'glue' and 'remove' enough?)
3) Wash underside of hood with a dish soap like Joy or Dawn-what's with women's names as dish soap? My wife NEVER does a dish. Of course, her name isn't Joy or Dawn either.
4) Use 3M 8090 to attach hood pad to hood.
5) Enjoy a quieter w123.
6) Move on to the next problem on the list (probably the dead sunroof).

__________________
1982 Silver 300DT

I think that sounds good... but I am prejudiced...

Remember that several light coats of any contact cement is better than a heavy one.. and that both surfaces which are going to stick together have to be sprayed AND dry. Typically 15 minutes of drying before putting the stuff together....

Oh yeah, sorry I meant on my last post this is what I used, I got it from ace hardware. Duh!

Your procedure sounds right! Make sure to cover the engine compartment when you're scraping and soaping and all that, those old pad pieces end up in the weirdest places...

__________________
"I would rather be ashes than dust!
I would rather that my spark should burn out in a brillaint blaze
than it should be stifled by dryrot.
I would rather be a superb meteor,
every atom of me in magnificent glow,
than a sleepy and permanent planet.
The proper function of man is to live, not to exist.
I shall not waste my days in trying to prolong them.
I shall use my time."

-Jack London 1876-1916

1983 300CDT (running WVO since 12/05)
1981 300SD (parts car)

I just replaced mine with a junkyard fibreglass mat out of a Chev Caprice. Here's how.

First I fitted it into position, with the hood totally vertical. You need to trip the special catches on the hood hinges for this.

Clamped the mat into position with a long strip of wood and a couple of clamps. Put padding under the clamps and don't dent your hood.

Folded the pad down half way, sprayed both pad and hood with cheap contact cement using a paint spray gun. Let it dry according to instructions.

Then removed the clamps and sprayed and glued the second half.

Finally, took scissors and trimmed the pad to size all the way around.

Worked fine, and I didn't bother to scrape off the old glue, even thought the pad had been replaced before (with old carpet!!) and there was plenty of glue.

Hope this helps.

I used 3M Spray Adhesive (the stronger industrial version since regular didn't work) and sprayed two cans onto the underside of the hood and some on the pad.....that was two years ago, and its still holding strong...I think it was like $6.99 a can or something at home depot. That was one sticky adventure....

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

when we install the new pads on our customers cars we use the 3m weatherstrip adhesive, it is in the tube, it takes two tubes to cover the entire pad. stick it in place and smooth it out with your hand. we have never had one come loose,

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=69400&highlight=8090

The 3M people themselves publish instructions and recommendations on the side of their cans.... that is why I posted pictures of the cans.
They put this higher sticking ability heat resistant contact cement into a spray can with an adjustable nozzle ... the perfect product for this job.

Use the 3M 8090 spray adhesive. I've redone both my hood pads, more than 5 years ago on the 123. Both are tight and look like new. Other adhesives may work but the 8090 is specifically formulated to withstand the heat. I'd be especially inclined to use it if I had a dark colored car (which I do).

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LRG
1987 300D Turbo 175K
2006 Toyota Prius, efficent but no soul
1985 300 TDT(130K miles of trouble free motoring)now sold

Of course, the Lowe's, Home Depot, Ace and Fred Meyer don't have the 3M 8090 in stock-they have 3M 77.
I'll have to call around to the outlying areas...

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1982 Silver 300DT