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Old 07-16-2005, 01:43 AM
dieselbeagel's Avatar
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Location: California
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93 300D 2.5L Injection Pump seals

I finally got the job done. It is not difficult but tedious.

I unscrewed the injector lines on injector 1,2 and 3, and unscrewed the ends on the injector pump. Two 10 mm bolts holding the lines to the manifold and I snaked the 3 lines out. They slide out easy as a unit. I left the holding clips on the lines.

Unscrewed the kickdown switch and actuator and moved them to the side.

The manifold and the remaining 2 lines came off as 1 piece. I left the injector lines screwed on to the manifold.

While I was there, I replaced the fuel line , from secondary fuel filter, that goes to the inner side of the IP. Looking at the amount of time it took me to get stuff off, it was a great idea (thanks Sixto !) to replace all the glow plugs.

It would have been cheaper to replace the glow plugs as they were required but amount of time needed to just replace one did not make sense to me.

The leak at the base of the spline nut, on the IP, is caused by a bad oring. On my car, spline nut for injector 1 was leaking. While I was there, I replaced all 5.

There is no need to replace the washer at the bottom of the spline nut.

I was told that when replacing the oring, not to totally unscrew the spline nut all the way out. Just enough until the oring can bee seen and picked out with a pick. Then slide the new oring onto the groove on the spline nut. I was able to do this on 3 out of 5 spline nuts. On the other 2, the oring had almost disintegrated and I had to pull the spline nut off.

There is a spring sitting in the hollow spline nut and below that is a copper washer. I then tighten 30 Nm, waited 10 mins, and then 30 Nm again, waited 10 mins and then 33 Nm.

Put everything back, screwed the injector lines at the IP and tighten. The manual calls for 10 - 20 Nm. Hand tighten till snug. Partially screwed on the injector side ends. Screwed on the crossover pipe and cranked the the engine till I saw fuel coming out of the injector lines at the injector. Tighten all the lines and good to go.

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Old 04-21-2010, 02:07 PM
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Thank you.

I have a 190D with a similar problem and configureation.

I wasn't sure if I had to remove the intake manifold or not. Had te hood up and was wondering how many skinned knuckes it would take otherwise. There is a lot of stuff to come off just to get the manifold off clean.

May I ask what the book torque requirements were to replace it?
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Old 04-21-2010, 03:16 PM
92 300D 2.5L OBK #59
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Central FL
Posts: 1,108
Here's a good resource on the procedure:
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM606DeliveryValveSeals

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM602InjPumpFuelLeak
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92 300D 2.5L OM602 OBK #59
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Old 04-22-2010, 10:22 PM
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Location: Iowa City, IA
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I pulled spline nuts off and replaced washer and oring. Who says you don't have to replace the washer? Is that in the FSM? Did you take off the intake?

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