I had previously posted a few weeks ago on my 87 300D. I injected dye to look for leaks. Only place I could find was on top of compressor (see arrows on photos).
The back of the compressor leak is between the manifold and compressor and I know how to change those. The area on the top look like it is comming from between the adaptor (that has the manifold attached to it) and the compressor. My question is this complicated to replace the seals (assuming o-rings). It appears that the compressor will have to come out (yes - no) to remove the top plate.

Any particular tricks to removing the compressor?

Should I also replace the o-ring at the expansion valve, even though they don't leak?
I also saw a post for synthetic compressor oil for R-12. Does anyone know which brand is best and where to get it?
Thanks,
Lee

Attached Thumbnails

   

I have never done this particular operation but it does not look like you need to remove the compressor. Just remove that bolt in the middle and any hold downs on the manifold assembly and move it out far enough for access to the o-rings.

I would not touch the expansion valve o rings if they are not leaking. Rarely do you have a leak like that. The expansion valve will sometimes leak at the diaphragm on the end, but again, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Good luck,

Just did these two repairs on the W124s last year (manifold seals on the 300D, leaking adapter on the TE). The high pressure side 0-rings on the adapter erode, causing the leak.

I removed the compressor as I though the center 0-ring on the case was bad (probably was anyway) so I resealed the compressor. Not bad, just a dirty job. I don't know if you can replace the four 0-rings under the adapter in the car or not, you will have to look and see if you can get to all four screws and get the plate off. I seem to remember that the 0-rings fit in a groove on the adapter, so you will have to watch that they dont' slip out of place.

Removing the compressor isn't bad -- belt, wires, manifold, and four bolts, comes right out, probably from the bottom most easily (on the TE, it can ONLY come out the bottom).

If you have PAG oil in it, either plug the lines pronto or change the reciever/dryer.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Thanks for the info. I might try getting a socket in there, but it looks real tight. Advice from anyone who has done it in the car would also be good. One other question, when I put the o-rings in, should I install them dry or coat them with a little compressor oil?
Thanks,
Lee

Oil 'em up.

Peter,
You wouldn't have the part numbers handy for the o-rings for the manifold seals would you? I'd even take a "correct name" that could be used to look them up at the local parts store. I would like to have all the parts in hand to reduce total down time and moisture exposure.
Thanks,
Lee