Hey,

How would you know if you need a new clutch/pressure plate set up ? My car has 160K with the original clutch and I feel like it is slipping a little bit in first gear.... can this be too soon ?

Thanks

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Audi TT

I think you answered your own question. If it's slipping with the clutch fully released and or your engine flares when accelerating then you know you're clutch needs replacing.

160k on an original clutch is amazing! At least around here it would be since driving consists of moving 10 feet at a time.

I take it the 2.2 isn't drag raced that often

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1974 240D 3.0L 4(M) - 250K -OM617.910 + 300D FW + Rajay turbo power!
1977 6.9 3(A) - 84k

You mentioned in a rather "tongue in cheek" way that you "think" your clutch might be slipping a little in first gear. If it is slipping a "little"in first gear it would have to be "all gone" in 4th and probably unusable in 3rd gear also. So look at it from the performance end of 4th gear. If you shift it into 4th at say 50 MPH and it takes off and performs normally, you do not have a clutch problem. If however, you hit 50 MPH and put it into 4th gear and all you get is high RPMs followed by a very bad smell, you need a clutch overhaul now!

"If it was easy everybody would do it"!

Junqueyardjim

it is strange because I only get it in the morning when I first start the car (it's nothing major just a little bit of slippage)

I was going to change the tranny fluid first

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Audi TT

Clutch life probably has more to do with how the car is driven more than anything. My 300E is a little over 280,000 miles with the original clutch and still doing great. My first 240D went to about 250,000 on the original clutch and my second 240D went to over a half million miles with only two replacements.

My 88 Vette even went about 110,000 miles on the original clutch.

Learn to drive it with minimal slippage and limit the power while the clutch is doing it's slipping. Once the clutch is fully engaged, you can gas the heck out of it, but a ginger throttle during start off is essential to long clutch life.

Now for the original question. Clutch failure will be indicated by either slipping, chattering or failure to release. If the clutch is not releasing make SURE that the problem is not hydraulic before replacing the clutch assembly itself.

Have a great day,

can anybody suggest a good manual tranny fluid ?

thanks

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Audi TT

Redline MTL

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

Do you know how much I will need to fill a 5speed in the 190d ? Thanks

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Audi TT

The odometer sez 120k but it wasn't really working when I bought it.

I have an invisible brake fluid leak, and I think I let it get a bit too low... I think there might be a bit o' air in there now... at least I hope so.

QUOTE:
If it is slipping a "little"in first gear it would have to be "all gone" in 4th and probably unusable in 3rd gear also. So look at it from the performance end of 4th gear. If you shift it into 4th at say 50 MPH and it takes off and performs normally, you do not have a clutch problem. If however, you hit 50 MPH and put it into 4th gear and all you get is high RPMs followed by a very bad smell, you need a clutch overhaul now!
END QUOTE

Is this really true?? this is completely counter to my subaru/nissan/vw clutch experiences.


thx,
Robert

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Cheers,
Robert

I forgot about the other criteria for determining a worn out clutch. It is very specific to a Benz. There is a special tool that you can buy or make that is simply a u shaped piece of sheet metal that you slide into a slot at the slave cylinder. If the clutch face is worn beyond its limit, the gauge will bottom out on the slave cylinder shaft. If it is not worn, it will not go in all the way.

As I recall the 123 Haynes manual has dimensions for making this tool, or you can pick one up at the dealer for a couple of bucks.

Good luck,

Robert,

It is more likely for a clutch to chatter in low gear because you are slipping the clutch to get moving. Once you are moving and you shift it correctly, you slip the clutch very little.

But a clutch will slip easier in higher gears because it takes more torque being transferred from the engine thru the clutch to propel the car. Also, chattering may be caused by oil getting on the clutch plate from a leak in the engine or transmission.

P E H

I read somewhere on this site a chattering clutch in first gear is caused by bad motor mounts.

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5 speed '91 190E 2.6 320,000 mi. (new car, fast, smooth as silk six, couldn't find any more Peugeots)
5 speed '85 Peugeot 505 2.5l Turbo Diesel 266,000 mi. (old car, fast for a diesel, had 2 others)
5 speed '01 Jetta V6 (new wifes car, pretty quick)
5 speed '85 Peugeot 505 2.2l Turbo Gas 197,000 mi. (wifes car, faster, sadly gone just short of 200k )
5 speed '83 Yamaha 750 Maxim 14,000 mi. (fastest)
0 speed 4' x 8' 1800 lb Harbor Freight utility trailer (only as fast as what's pulling it)

Clutch chatter is not CAUSED by bad motor mounts, but it is transmitted and aggravated by bad motor mounts. Vibrations, chatters, etc. cannot be caused by non rotating charts, but such parts can effect how the vibration is perceived.

Have a great day,

I found where I saw it...

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5 speed '91 190E 2.6 320,000 mi. (new car, fast, smooth as silk six, couldn't find any more Peugeots)
5 speed '85 Peugeot 505 2.5l Turbo Diesel 266,000 mi. (old car, fast for a diesel, had 2 others)
5 speed '01 Jetta V6 (new wifes car, pretty quick)
5 speed '85 Peugeot 505 2.2l Turbo Gas 197,000 mi. (wifes car, faster, sadly gone just short of 200k )
5 speed '83 Yamaha 750 Maxim 14,000 mi. (fastest)
0 speed 4' x 8' 1800 lb Harbor Freight utility trailer (only as fast as what's pulling it)

Loose bolts and deformed dowels between the engine and bell housing can cause clutch related noise and chattering.