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#1
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transmission yoke tool, remover
Hey guys I haven't posted anything in awhile so here it goes! I haven't looked real good at it yet, but it looks like I need a special socket or something to remove the yoke from the tailshaft (this is of course for a 300D, 1982) Does anyone have this tool? or maybe I can loan it, I didn't see anything on our loan-a-tool program yet (which I think is a GREAT idea!)
Thanks guys
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-Randy Wakefield 1969 220D 4 speed (parts car) 1976 280C 1976 280S 1981 240D 4 speed (parts car) 1982 300D 1983 300TD (Ivory) 1983 300TD (gold) 1985 300TD (gray) 1987 190D 2.5 1970 280SEL (sold) 1977 240D 4 speed (sold) 1974 280 (rusted to death) --- 1927 Chevy 4 door sedan 1938 Chevy 2 door sedan 1950 Willys Jeepster 1955 Studebaker President 4 door 1977 Ford F250 1979 Glastron 17' 1948 John Deere A 1960 John Deere 2010 1979 Satoh S650G -- 2000 Bichon (Doby) |
#2
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Quote:
See this: 30 mm thinwall
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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm. |
#3
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Quote:
What I'm doing is probably what you did, changing tailshaft housings from an SD to a D. BTW, do you still have that socket?
__________________
-Randy Wakefield 1969 220D 4 speed (parts car) 1976 280C 1976 280S 1981 240D 4 speed (parts car) 1982 300D 1983 300TD (Ivory) 1983 300TD (gold) 1985 300TD (gray) 1987 190D 2.5 1970 280SEL (sold) 1977 240D 4 speed (sold) 1974 280 (rusted to death) --- 1927 Chevy 4 door sedan 1938 Chevy 2 door sedan 1950 Willys Jeepster 1955 Studebaker President 4 door 1977 Ford F250 1979 Glastron 17' 1948 John Deere A 1960 John Deere 2010 1979 Satoh S650G -- 2000 Bichon (Doby) |
#4
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Quote:
FWIW, Lance never was able to remove the retaining nut from the SD tranny he was working on...it didn't have a hex-shaped nut. Also, I recall now that one of the trannies I messed around with had a nut with four slots cut into it...like you'd use a pin socket to remove.
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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm. |
#5
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Quote:
__________________
-Randy Wakefield 1969 220D 4 speed (parts car) 1976 280C 1976 280S 1981 240D 4 speed (parts car) 1982 300D 1983 300TD (Ivory) 1983 300TD (gold) 1985 300TD (gray) 1987 190D 2.5 1970 280SEL (sold) 1977 240D 4 speed (sold) 1974 280 (rusted to death) --- 1927 Chevy 4 door sedan 1938 Chevy 2 door sedan 1950 Willys Jeepster 1955 Studebaker President 4 door 1977 Ford F250 1979 Glastron 17' 1948 John Deere A 1960 John Deere 2010 1979 Satoh S650G -- 2000 Bichon (Doby) |
#6
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I have one of each as I'm right now rebuilding a tranny for my SD. One has the 30mm 12 point and the other has a nut with 4 exterior notches. I noticed that my 1 1/4" socket matches the diameter of those notches. I'm really tempted to grind it down and make the tool, but it's a Snap-on and the only 1 1/4" I have, so maybe I'll make one from a piece of pipe.
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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue" "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement." listen, look, .........and duck. |
#7
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I used a 1 3/16 socket, it fit the 12 point 30MM perfect. Its really tight, and haven't been able to break it loose yet.
__________________
-Randy Wakefield 1969 220D 4 speed (parts car) 1976 280C 1976 280S 1981 240D 4 speed (parts car) 1982 300D 1983 300TD (Ivory) 1983 300TD (gold) 1985 300TD (gray) 1987 190D 2.5 1970 280SEL (sold) 1977 240D 4 speed (sold) 1974 280 (rusted to death) --- 1927 Chevy 4 door sedan 1938 Chevy 2 door sedan 1950 Willys Jeepster 1955 Studebaker President 4 door 1977 Ford F250 1979 Glastron 17' 1948 John Deere A 1960 John Deere 2010 1979 Satoh S650G -- 2000 Bichon (Doby) |
#8
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1 3/16" is nominally only about 0.006" larger than a 30mm, so it probably will work, but make sure it's straight. Also, that nut is staked into a groove in the output shaft. If you drive a piece of HARDENED steel ground to the right size in there, it will bend the staked portion of that nut out of the groove.
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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue" "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement." listen, look, .........and duck. |
#9
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FWIW, I bought a SK 30mm thinwall and removed the nut without too much trouble. If I made a sleeve to pilot the stub end of the output shaft, it would be much better, because that nut is not very high, and the side loading on the ratchet makes it difficult when the trans is on the bench. Would be much easier with trans still bolted to engine.
I also did make a tool to undo the nut with 4 rectangular notches on the other trans. I used a 3" piece of 1-1/4" black pipe, sawzall and file. I gripped the pipe with a pipe wrench. Worked really well.
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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue" "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement." listen, look, .........and duck. Last edited by Pete Burton; 08-04-2005 at 03:22 PM. |
#10
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Dont know if this is anything like the nut on the manuals but it sounds like it might be. I made a tool to remove it out of a chunk of 1 &1/4 pipe using a sazall to cut the knoches and a 4' angle grinder to finish the cuts, works fine.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#11
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Yes Steve and thanks - I now realize that I used a 1-1/4" pipe, not 1-1/2", so I edited previous. AND I also used the 4" grinder like you did, then I snapped out the weakened pieces with visegrips. Great minds think alike, I guess
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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue" "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement." listen, look, .........and duck. |
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