Front brake pads - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Phil · #1 07-30-2005, 10:48 PM

I just finished adjusting the valves and took my car for a test drive and the brake light came on (always something).
Does anyone have any advise about changing the front pads? I looked at my manual and it doesn't really say anything.
Thanks to all

t walgamuth · #2 07-30-2005, 11:15 PM

you dont say what year and model but i will guess a 123 body.

jack up a wheel and look it over. pull out the pins if the hair pin type or drive them out with a drift and remove and install new pads. if too tight on edges sometimes you need to grind them down a little. you will need a big screwdriver to pry out the pucks in the caliper. it is pretty easy.

after you have done it a few time s you will find that it takes longer to remove the wheel and put the jack up and down than it takes to do the brakes.

i was intimidated the first time i did disc brakes on my 74 saab (same brakes as a 123 benz) and wanted to pay someone to do it but it was 300 pm on new years eave and i had to do it myself before taking a trip to fla. it was so easy that i just kept laughing to myself as i did it. i stillchuckle everytime i do a disc brake job.

tom w

Palangi · #3 07-30-2005, 11:26 PM

Click on the DIY button at the top of the page. There is a writeup on brake pad DIY on a 124. It is basically the same on a 123.

t walgamuth · #4 07-30-2005, 11:43 PM

the 124s are different but still simple. just not as obvious how to do it.

tom w

Palangi · #5 07-30-2005, 11:55 PM

Close enough that you can successfully change pads following that DIY procedure. If not, use the Haynes book.

Phil · #6 07-31-2005, 12:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

you dont say what year and model but i will guess a 123 body.

jack up a wheel and look it over. pull out the pins if the hair pin type or drive them out with a drift and remove and install new pads. if too tight on edges sometimes you need to grind them down a little. you will need a big screwdriver to pry out the pucks in the caliper. it is pretty easy.

after you have done it a few time s you will find that it takes longer to remove the wheel and put the jack up and down than it takes to do the brakes.

i was intimidated the first time i did disc brakes on my 74 saab (same brakes as a 123 benz) and wanted to pay someone to do it but it was 300 pm on new years eave and i had to do it myself before taking a trip to fla. it was so easy that i just kept laughing to myself as i did it. i stillchuckle everytime i do a disc brake job.

tom w

Year and Model is always on the bottom left of all my posts. I have it on there automatically so there won't be any confussion.
Thanks

#7 07-31-2005, 06:08 AM

Pads are easy on the w126 body...
You don't have to do any griding or anything...those calipers open up WAY wide.
Do some searching to find out different pad types, etc.
Just to get you started, my PBR Deluxe brand pads all around are nice but a bit noisy (squeaking) if I am light with my foot at certain times (not all the time).

I guess it just inspires me to drive faster.
Do some searches...you only need a tiny handfull of tools to do the job

t walgamuth · #8 07-31-2005, 07:53 AM

sorry, didnt notice the sig. the calipers on the 126 are the same as the 123 except on the sec which has floating calipers. simple.

tom w

dannym · #9 08-02-2005, 08:37 AM

Hey,
You will want to get a can of brake cleaner and spray the crap out of the calipers before you put the new pads in.
Also get some anti-squeal paste from your local auto parts store and treat the new pads. BACK SIDE ONLY.

Both of these will keep the brakes from squealing with the new pads.

Danny

Phil · #10 08-02-2005, 10:49 AM

As an update, just after adjusting the valves I took the car for a test drive and the brake light came on when I stepped on the brakes. I dorve home and posted this lead. The car sat the rest of that day and now when I drive it no more brake light. About the only thing I can think of is that a drop of sweat (very hot day) landed on a connection when I was doing the valves causing a temporary signal but later evaporated and all OK. THATS STRETCHING IT but so far the only thing I've come up with.
Thanks all. I will keep a copy of all the above advice as sooner or later I will have to change the brakes.
As an aside item, the home made valve adjusting wrenches (all Three) worked just fine. Cost of material to make $8.00.

#11 08-02-2005, 11:08 AM

When changing pads ALWAYS remove and replace one pad at a time. Do NOT remove both pads in a caliper and then pry the pistons back into their bores. The pressure from one piston can easily push the other piston out past the seal requiring caliper disassembly to correct.

Good luck,

angst · #12 08-02-2005, 11:38 AM

I had an awful experience with pads this week. I have done plenty of brakes but this weekend kicked my butt. I was putting on another set of my lifetime autozone pads and outside ones were really hard to get in despite having compressed the caliper all the way.
When all was done they drug something terrible. After several driving and cooling cycles totaling 20 miles they still drug to the point that they smoked.
I gave up and put the old pads back on. The guy at the parts store had no explination other than the pads may have been defective and made to thick.
any thoughts?

dannym · #13 08-02-2005, 12:11 PM

What was the brand name on those AutoZone pads?

Danny

angst · #14 08-02-2005, 02:43 PM

Albany. Part number MKD145

83-240D · #15 08-02-2005, 04:52 PM

are these available for our cars?

long life, no dust.

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