You guys have always been my best source for information and i need help on to seperate situations.

1.My first problem is that my battery light comes on intermittently most frequently at high rpms. The alternator is relativeley new (about a year), belts tight, and all connections are good but on two occasions my battery has drained to the point of not being to able to start. Am I correct in presuming it might be the voltage regulator on the alternator? What do you guys think?

2.My second problem is a severe transmission fluid leak that leaves me filling up the transimission with a quart of fluid every week. Ive noticed that the leak generally comes from the front of the transmission (from or around the torque converter). Also it seems to really pour out substantially more when i am reversing? Any ideas?

unfortunatley i have just moved to New Jersey and am stuck with street side parking on a hill, so I cant jack my car up to look. I am taking this to an indy shop on monday so they can investigate but I want to have a clue before I go. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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1983 300SD White with Grey interior

The life of a rebuilt alternator can sometimes be measured in months. I've had the SD alternator last two years and then, it needs a rebuild again.

Your first line of attack should be the regulator and/or the brushes. But, I'd be surprised if the brushes are shot. I can't believe the shop didn't replace them when the rebuild was done.

In my case, they didn't use a Bosch regulator. Seems the aftermarket regulator is "just as good as a Bosch".

Yeah.

Cheap rebuilds are just that... why did you replace the old one? Obviously something was wrong but what? I usually just throw new regulators or brushes on alts and off I go again.

I did that in the SD. I replaced it with a "Hella" brand reg and it lasted only 6-7 months for some reason. Went to a Borg-Warner, been in for three so far and working like a champ.



I'd check that pan gasket first, the torque spec is very low... 6ft-lbs I recall. Also reverse applies the most line pressure to the trans so that could explain the higher leak you're getting. The converter drain plug could be loose, crush washer needing replacment, etc. You have a few things to scope out.

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

On the transmission leak, also check the security of the dipstick tube. It may be flexing the grommet where it feeds into the tranny. Also, since it seems worse in reverse, it may be one of the hard cooling lines has worn through. The rubber in the clamps deteriorates and vibration wears a thin spot. I went through this same thing about a year ago. A new hard line is about $50.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

Ok...so, im feeling i can handle the repairs associated with this. I gotta drive it someplace where i can work on it, but im sure i can figure that out. Im gonna get a new voltage regulator, but where can i get brushes for the alternator to rebuild it myself if nessecary. For the tranny what gaskets should i buy, which ones are most likley responsible?

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1983 300SD White with Grey interior

There is really only one gasket, for the pan. Be sure and use a torque wrench on the pan bolts. If it is leaking around the dip stick grommet, you may have to see the dealer about a replacement. The cooling lines attach with banjo bolts and 2 copper washers. More than likely, it is the pan gasket since they tend to get over-torqued by mechanics.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

Jman,

You should be able to get alternator brushes from a MB dealer or an automotive electrical shop.

P E H