Replacing Rack dampener pin

[ChicagoJones]

My car has the “Shakes”. Did the diesel purge this past weekend, new motor mounts a few months ago and it still loping at idle. I ordered a new rack dampener pin to replace my silver one and will be installing it soon. Is there any special tips I should know about in replacing it? i.e. Like when I remove the bolt should I expect something to fall out of the IP?

[rrgrassi]

Originally Posted by ChicagoJones

My car has the “Shakes”. Did the diesel purge this past weekend, new motor mounts a few months ago and it still loping at idle. I ordered a new rack dampener pin to replace my silver one and will be installing it soon. Is there any special tips I should know about in replacing it? i.e. Like when I remove the bolt should I expect something to fall out of the IP?

Did you check your engine mounts, tranny mount and engine shocks?

It is a good idea to replace the original pin with the updated one.

I do not think anything falls out, but I am also curious how to install the new one with out over tightening it.

[ChicagoJones]

Originally Posted by rrgrassi

Did you check your engine mounts, tranny mount and engine shocks?

It is a good idea to replace the original pin with the updated one.

I do not think anything falls out, but I am also curious how to install the new one with out over tightening it.

The mounts were changed a couple of months ago, engine shocks were checked and not flopping around when the mounts were changed, tranny mount is all intact and also did an Italian tuneup. Rack Dampner pin I guess is next.

[GRIESL]

Originally Posted by rrgrassi

I do not think anything falls out, but I am also curious how to install the new one with out over tightening it.

If you get it from ************** they send directions. But IIRC when I did mine, you get it in there till you feel a little resistance and start the car. If it idles (even rough) get it up to operating temp and start bumping it in until the engine smooths out. If I were to feel significant resistance I'd stop turning it and start looking at other causes for the problem. From what I understand, it's kind of like that ALDA adjustment screw--you really don't want the things inside the IP attached to it to break.

[rrgrassi]

Have you also cracked the fuel delivery lines one at at time to each injector while the engine is idling and note it's characteristics? You should notice a harsher idle. If you crack one and no change, then it's time to do an injector/cylinder swap and retest to rule out bad injector.

Did you also check the operations of the engine shocks? I have seen them look ok visually, but had no resistance when actually moved. The engine shocks should be pretty stiff to move.

Glad to here the mounts are good.

[dieseldan44]

You need a 14 mm and 16mm open end wrenches I believe.

-Get the car to hot idle, shut the car off.
-There is a locknut on the old pin. Loosen this a couple turns.
-With the wrench, and then your fingers unscrew the old rack damper pin. A valuable technique: Straddle the oil cooler line with your thumb and middle finger to make the turns. This makes the whole procedure SOOO much easier. I laughed a cosmic laugh when I realized this.
- Remove and observe.
-Take some of the oil off the old pin and put a little on the new gold pin.
-Screw pin into the IP until you feel a little resistance.
-Turn the car on.
-Now it's time to tweak. Back out the screw until the engine really lopes. You'll know when youre there.
-Now screw in a couple turns, to right after it stops loping. It will not get much smoother going in further, it supposedly will be harder to start.

This improved my hot idle quite a bit. I got a gold damper screw off a junkyard car. There's an article that ive probably paraphrased pretty much at mbz.org IIRC.

Good luck!
dd

[ChicagoJones]

Originally Posted by rrgrassi

Have you also cracked the fuel delivery lines one at at time to each injector while the engine is idling and note it's characteristics? You should notice a harsher idle. If you crack one and no change, then it's time to do an injector/cylinder swap and retest to rule out bad injector.

Did you also check the operations of the engine shocks? I have seen them look ok visually, but had no resistance when actually moved. The engine shocks should be pretty stiff to move.

Glad to here the mounts are good.

I failed to mentioned I did that. I even switched injectors around to see if would calm down. As for the shocks, there were some resistance I that though were ok, but I am not really sure what a "new" shock would feel like.

[ChicagoJones]

Originally Posted by dieseldan44

You need a 14 mm and 16mm open end wrenches I believe.

-Get the car to hot idle, shut the car off.
-There is a locknut on the old pin. Loosen this a couple turns.
-With the wrench, and then your fingers unscrew the old rack damper pin. A valuable technique: Straddle the oil cooler line with your thumb and middle finger to make the turns. This makes the whole procedure SOOO much easier. I laughed a cosmic laugh when I realized this.
- Remove and observe.
-Take some of the oil off the old pin and put a little on the new gold pin.
-Screw pin into the IP until you feel a little resistance.
-Turn the car on.
-Now it's time to tweak. Back out the screw until the engine really lopes. You'll know when youre there.
-Now screw in a couple turns, to right after it stops loping. It will not get much smoother going in further, it supposedly will be harder to start.

This improved my hot idle quite a bit. I got a gold damper screw off a junkyard car. There's an article that ive probably paraphrased pretty much at mbz.org IIRC.

Good luck!
dd

Thanks this sounds good!

[rrgrassi]

Originally Posted by ChicagoJones

I failed to mentioned I did that. I even switched injectors around to see if would calm down. As for the shocks, there were some resistance I that though were ok, but I am not really sure what a "new" shock would feel like.

I changed mine out about 2 months ago. New ones are nearly impossible to move up and down when they are out of the car. In the car you can move them, but it is hard to do.

My old ones, one was actually broken off, the other had the lower rubber mounts missing. I could move the old ones really easy, even out of the car.

[Johnhef]

Originally Posted by dieseldan44

You need a 14 mm and 16mm open end wrenches I believe.

Right on except 12 and 14mm. He's right if you go too far in the car will be harder to start and want to die out until warmed up.

[lutzTD]

this sounds like it might solve my vibe issue as well.can the spring be replaced without buying the entire new part? where is the cheapest source for the gold rack damper? thanx

[bgkast]

Originally Posted by lutzTD

can the spring be replaced without buying the entire new part? where is the cheapest source for the gold rack damper? thanx

No.

Junk yard. A new one is in the $90 range.

[Dewhite2485]

Im new to MB diesels, what is this pin what does it do, why does it cost so much and where is it

[TWeatherford]

How do you know if a used one is any better than the one you've already got? If its gold does it have a fair shot of being worthwhile?

[dieseldan44]

I took one out of a yard car. I wanted one quick. I really have no guarantee that the pin is %100, but its better than my silver one was.

For $27 bucks I think it would be worth it to invest in a new one, ensuring you have a fresh spring.