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#1
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Turbo Drain
How difficult is it to replace the turbo drain seal on a 300SD?
Thanks |
#2
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Wasn't difficult for me. But I guess it depends on whether you have a federal version or a Kalifornia version.
BTW, when I rebuilt my motor, I did the turbo drain per spec and it leaked like crazy. I took it apart again and used some RTV along with the O-rings and no more leaks.
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Michael LaFleur '05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles '86 300SDL - 360,000 miles '85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold) '89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold) '85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold) '98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold) '75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold) '83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-( '61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes 2004 Papillon (Oliver) 2005 Tzitzu (Griffon) 2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba) |
#3
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it is not
easy. imho. if just doing the drain, i believe you have to remove the turbo. then, reinstalling the drain is a royal pita. i had my brother do it and i think he had it back off at least twice. perhaps he was doing it wrong.
tom w
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#4
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Stickys are for everyone!
Step (1) Go to sticky: DIY pages (with the arrow) (I know it says W123 but we are dealing with the same engine.)
Step (2) Scroll down to Engine: Replacing Turbo Oil Return Seals Step (3) Searches answer even more questions. Not trying to be sarcastic or a hardass, it's just that the more experienced folks have talked some of these subjects to death in previous posts. They are glad to answer any questions but usually after you do a little bit of homework.
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Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
#5
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Thanks Sam. I followed your instructions, which are very good, however, after I click on the Replacing Turbo Oil Return Seals link, I receive the dreaded 404 error:
The page cannot be found The page you are looking for might have been removed, had its name changed, or is temporarily unavailable. So I'm kind of back at square one. I'm a little concerned after reading one of the previous posts where the turbo had to be removed a couple of times. Taking off the turbo at all is not what I had in mind. |
#6
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The turbo absolutely does NOT need to be removed to change the drain tube on the 300SD. However, it may be easier to remove the lower oil pan to drive the lower tube out than pulling it from above, depending on how old and hard the grommet is. Cleaning/ degreasing the whole area before you start the job is worth every minute, IMHO.
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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue" "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement." listen, look, .........and duck. |
#7
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Try here, pics included......
Try here:http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=113087&highlight=turbo+oil+return+drain
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Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
#8
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Thanks. Yeah, degreasing the engine would probably be a good idea before taking on a job of this magnitude! I appreciate the information.
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#9
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sorry
when we did that work the main job was taking the turbo off and on. the seals on the drain tube were incidental but caused us major problems. we didnt see how to change the seals wo removing the turbo, i guess.
tom w
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#10
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so the way
to remove the tube wo removing the turbo is to remove the oil pan? if so i am not sure that is a lot easier. prob easier to get it to seal the first time, though.
tom w
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#11
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Often, the easiest way to remove the lower tube is to first remove the lower (steel) oil pan. The reason is that an old grommet gets very hard and inflexible. In theory, you "just pull the tube out" from the top. Right. With a soft seal, that's not too bad. I did this with an old hard seal, prying, finally cutting the grommet. If I had just removed the oil pan and pushed it out from below, I could have done the job 3 or 4 times over compared to the struggle from above.
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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue" "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement." listen, look, .........and duck. |
#12
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so
if it is just the steel pan, it would be a lot easier than removing the turbo. but from your descrip i still am not clear... is there a way to remove it wo removing the turbo if the seals are nice and not stiff?
tom w
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#13
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Quote:
Saves the trouble of removing the lower pan. But, there is always the problem of grommet parts............... |
#14
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Quote:
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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue" "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement." listen, look, .........and duck. |
#15
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Quote:
BTW, I don't mean that to sound nasty or anything. It's just that I still have memories of that job, it was a real PITA, it was greasy, the car was new to me, and IIRC it was my time of the month Removing the transmission recently was easier - for me.
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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue" "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement." listen, look, .........and duck. |
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