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#1
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A/C questions - '85 300D
Car - '85 300D which we have owned for 15 years.
A/C history - Original compressor failed in May 1998 - System converted to R134a (no choice here) Trumark compressor installed plus rec./drier - Dec 1999 - Compressor failed - Replaced with remanufactured compressor along with another rec/drier. - May 2000 A/C not working - evacuated and leak tested - no leaks - recharged. Working again. - Dec 2000 - Engine replaced (that's another story!) - A/C re-installed and recharged - Slight leak suspected - added dye, but never checked. - Oct 2002 - A/C drive belt broke - Cause - seized compressor Since then, we have done without A/C. After a long hot summer, once again thinking of fixing A/C, but have some questions: 1. Presently, compressor is still on car and seized. There should still be Freon in the system. I would like to check that evaporator & condenser & rest of system is not leaking or in need of replacement - Is there a way for me to do a static pressure or vacuum test without special equipment? How do I do this? 2. When Freon (R134 in this case) leaks from a system, I have heard that some oil goes with it and system can seize due to insufficient oil. When recharging with Freon, as done in 2000, presumably some oil should be added - But how would anyone know how much to add? After previous experience and a lot of $$ spent, I don't want to spend a lot of $$ only to have it all fail again in a year or so. As I see it, I need: - No leaks - Good compressor - New rec/drier (and perhaps new valve too?) - Clean system - Proper amount of R134 and oil. Any advice, comments, answers, moral support welcomed I want to be cool again |
#2
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You answered most of your question...
- No leaks
- Good compressor - New rec/drier. - Clean system - Proper amount of R-12 and oil. You need a friend in the USA with an R-12 license. Flushing the system is a PIA, replacing parts is easy. Converting to R-134A is a BAD idea.
__________________
ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#3
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I had the same issue with the 123 when I owned it. Compressor was replaced and the entire system flushed. Two years later, the compressor goes out again and I need to spend another $800. to get it working again.
In many discussions with Larry Bible on this forum, he indicated that this is not uncommon with vehicles converted to R-134. The significantly higher system pressures and the way the compressor is mounted shortens the life of the compressor dramatically. The solution is to convert back to R-12. If the compressor operates at significantly lower pressures, odds are that it will last significantly longer. Sure, the R-12 costs more at the initial fill, but, what does a compressor cost you? |
#4
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#5
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Perhaps you should look at converting to a compressor brand which lasts longer with 134a.....
Do you have the Delco R-4 as original equipment ? |
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Quote:
What type of compressor would last longer with R134a? |
#7
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Find a late model which was made to run 134a....
Maybe ask on aircondition.com ..... or call Tray at Carlisle Auto air in San Antonio... I have never asked that question because I am staying with R12 myself.... |
#8
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#9
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Checked car today - Opened schrader valve - no hiss - presumably almost no Freon left. Tried to rotate compressor - seemed frozen solid. Doesn't seem like there is way to test evaporator/condenser for leaks without first replacing compressor? |
#10
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I've had many remans fail at our shop (ecspecially r-4's ) common on chevy's.
Not sure what can be done about that. We've had them defective right out of the box. Use new when you can. Haven't had a problem with higher pressures as we only put in 80% R134a that the car would use if using R12 (if in doubt less is better than more). Also it's a good idea to install an inline filter just before the compressor (Any AC shop should have them). Make sure the system is put through it's paces after the repair (No faulty switches allowing pressures to get too high). Rememder that the AC compessor runs on all but the econo and off positions on your cimate control. Good luck. ____________________- 83 300sd 3 fords |
#11
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" Also it's a good idea to install an inline filter just before the compressor "
Larry and I have been saying this for years....and I think I posted a picture of an aftermarket add on type available... You can get this sort of speciality stuff from Carlisle Auto Air.... I have posted their info before.... |
#12
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The R-4 Delco , Puck on Steroids, is a scotchyoke design...
most ompressors are radial or swashplate.... they are smoother and require less hp to run them... so any late model usually installed on new cars using 134a should be stronger. |
#13
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Sometimes it's just a crapshoot.
We just put a brand new Delco R4 on my 300D. It went BANG about 30 seconds into the charging process. Took it back and got another one, and all is well (except I'm out a can of R-12 of course).
__________________
Palangi 2004 C240 Wagon 203.261 Baby Benz 2008 ML320 CDI Highway Cruiser 2006 Toyota Prius, Saving the Planet @ 48 mpg 2000 F-150, Destroying the Planet @ 20 mpg TRUMP .......... WHITEHOUSE HILLARY .........JAILHOUSE BERNIE .......... NUTHOUSE 0BAMA .......... OUTHOUSE |
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#15
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We discussed the drain hole locations some time back (see link below) - Do these new standard Delco R-4's have the oil lube holes in the proper location for under engine installation as required on 123 diesels? http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=904168&postcount=6 |
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