Hey, I am hoping that you guys may be able to help out someone that is new to Mercedes diesels. I have an 03 Dodge with the cummins and an '05 VW TDI, both have been great.
That all said, I'm looking for something to keep a few miles off the truck and save on some fuel costs by installing a grease kit. I don't want to screw up something in the expensive high pressure common rail fuel system in the truck by running WVO through.
SO, a customer of mine has a '93 300D with the 2.5 that is for sale. It has had 2 owners and well maintained 149,000 miles. It had a complete A/C system replacement less than 2 years ago, new window motor in the back and new timing chain, gear and a few lifters replaced very recently.
The car looks clean and he said it runs very well since the repairs. I have not personally inspected the car yet, I was hoping to get some info here on what to look for...
Is this engine a good engine or should I continue looking for a 3.0L?
Are there any common problems with this car I should be looking for?
WHen driving it is there anything particular that I should listen for or feel for?
It is in above avg. condition, not perfect and I know the cruise does not work. I have looked in Kelley blue book, NADA, edmunds, all over, and that is what kind of value I'm finding, all over...anything from $2500 to $12500. What would this car truly be worth? My credit union will lend $7500 on the car.

Thanks for any information. I truly appreciate it and thank you for your time!

Rob

like good chance it is a nice car. a compression test might be worth it. check all ac functions as this is a problem area. the 2.5 diesels are not known to be problematic. much more reliable than the sixes which do have some chronic issues.

if the car is very clean then the 7500 prob is a fair price. i would have a person with extensive mercedes experience check it out for you. the benzes are made so well that even a poor one will fell very solid when drivning compared to othe cars.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

For what it is worth, I just purchased a similar sounding car: '93 2.5 w/162K. It is two owner car with complete service records since new. Everything done on schedule, including new timing chain just before I bought it. All original paintwork, nearly perfect interior. Right rear window regulator is not working (can hear motor but glass slides free in frame), the radio was shot and the cruise sometimes surges (didn't find that out til after I bought it). I worked pretty hard on the price, but the best i could do was around $8500. So far, I really like the car. Performance is better than I expected. Handling is great and the seats are wonderful. It got 30 mpg on my first 150 mi. commute and 35 mpg on the same route the next day. Don't know if this information helps at all...
Mark
South Carolina

ok, I feel better about the car. I'm trying to get it at or below $7k. There is a small dent on the back of the trunk lid, below the plate mount. other than that, looks clean in the pictures he sent. I guess I'll make up my mind after I drive it and see what he'll do on the price.
I have regretted selling our '03 Jetta TDI 5spd since the day I watched it pull away, I loved getting over 50mpg...

I have a 1991 which is basically the same car. No worries at all about the engine - it is rock solid. I would drive it anywhere. When I was researching the various models prior to purchase, I had a few people turn up their noses at the 2.5, saying it was not as reliable as the older 3L 5 cylinder engine. Maybe not, but that's like saying a Porsche is not as fast as a Ferrari. Yes, it has an aluminum head rather than iron but in my world that's an improvement.

The rear window regulator is roughly $350, not including installation. If that part was replaced with a brand new one, that's a nice bonus because they are fragile - both of mine broke within the past month and there is no easy fix other than replacing with new or taking your chances with a relatively expensive used part.

Other common problems - the left tie rod end (listen for clunk when turning and/or going over bumps), upper strut mounts (look underneath for cracks in rubber) and engine mounts (vibrations at idle, search the archives).

I currently have a 50-50 mix of diesel and WVO in the tank and initial impressions are that it runs great.

One thing to keep in mind, the older cars can apparently use RUG (Regular Unleaded Gas) in a mixture with diesel or WVO. Some on this board have stated that it is in the owners manual, and it states this in my Bentley manual for the 123. However, in my 124/602 owners manual it states that RUG must NEVER be mixed with diesel. I found one post here saying it would harm the IP (Injection Pump) which is unfortunate because it seems like 80%WVO and 20% RUG is a good blend... but I'm scared to run it. Whether or not it would actually cause a problem, I don't know but for now I'm not taking chances. I will continue to research this issue.

Bottom line, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend this car to you.

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-Dave

Speedy

I just picked up a 92 300D 2.5L. I love everything about it. But the vibrations at idle, especially after the engine is warm, is getting to me. In my search some are saying to replace the Idler adjustment Pin (or Rack Damping Bolt). However, I can't find a part number or a location for it, and even the mechanic didn't know what I was talking about. Any ideas?

i would check engine mounts and engine shocks too (if the 602 has).

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

What you have to think about is.... The manual was written for diesel fuel, not WVO. So lubrisity and cooling become issues for the IP if you add RUG to Diesel fuel.

But that's not what you are doing. You are blending RUG with WVO. Less than 1% of soy oil is needed to meet lubrisity specifications when blended into diesel fuel. AN 80wvo/20rug blend is not going to cause lubrisity issues.

Viscosity may be another issue for your IP. If the fuel is too thick for the IP to handel, it may cause failure. I have yet to see this posted anywhere on a MB. Even when people run SVO in a one tank cold system. It's the rings that sieze up from cold veg oil starts (polymerization) that causes the engines demise, NOT the IP failing.


What you want to achieve with a blend......
Lubrisity, good detonation on cold starts, low viscosity. Basically trying to copy diesel fuel characteristics. Biodiesel infopop forum is a good place to search.

WVO= great lubrisity, high flash point, high viscosity

RUG= poor lubrisity, low flash point, low viscosity

LINK

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