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Door aligning after replacement
Good grief! Anybody have any tips on how to align a door after replacing it? This is the drivers door, BTW.
I tried to use a milk crate with padding to keep the door level and actually mount it, which worked fine, but now I can't really get it squared up correctly. I had the wife tighten the bolts while I tried biasing the door at different heights and angles. All that accomplished was alot of yelling, and an iron clad guarantee that I will sleep in the guest room for most of the week. I had quarter panel rubbing, I scratched the paint horrifically on the A-pillar, and the back of door didn't line up well the rear door. I know this isn't rocket science, but is there a technique that would help? Thanks yall.
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Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed '81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John |
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i am not
an expert but this seemingly simple task is actually quite trickey. you just have to look at how the door is hanging and try to determine how to move the hinges to correct it. for example if the top of the door is out at then the top door hinge needs to move in or the bottom out. you determine which to move by the position of the front edge of the door. if the skin of the door and fender are flush at the top then you will need to adjust the bottom which may be too far in or out. if you need to move the top hinge in, you loosten the bolts just some then open the door and lift the bottom til the hinge moves in. then shut the door and see if it is enough, when it is enough, tightne the bolts. etc. if the back of the door is too far out, you can loosten the strike and tap it in with a hammer. eventually you will hopefully get down to minor adjustments to get the seals to stop leaking. just take your time and use your eyes to look and see what needs to be in or out.
and next time get a buddy to help you instead of your wife! i about have to beg to get mine to help, so if she does i am very nice to her. she is the last person i want to piss off! 29 years of marriage trump all car needs. good luck. by the way panel alignment is something that not all can master. it is kind of a black art. so if you dont seem to get it dont feel bad and get someone to help you. tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
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It took me a couple of hours to get the driver's door on the SDL to the point where it is just about OK.
I will tell you that you don't need two people. One person is sufficient. The key to the task is to get a floor jack. You can't do the task without it, because you can't support the door and simultaneously tighten the screws. But, with the jack supporting the door (place it close to the middle of the door with suitable protective wood), you can get some fine tuning of the height in an attempt to get the gaps all the same. Don't worry about the striker or how the door closes. Just get the gaps proper. Then, when the gaps and heights are OK, you deal with the striker. The striker is adjustable, both up and down and fore and aft, by a small amount. Additionally, the striker can be shimmed out away from the door frame so that it aligns perfectly with the pin. Smear some grease on the pin and close the door. Open the door and see where the pin is rubbing on the striker. When you get it perfect, no grease will rub off the pin (very difficult to do ) |
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Well, I got home this afternoon and looked at the door in the daylight. The top rear of the door seal, down about 10" isn't even touching the body frame.
I guess I'll have some more adjusting to do, and am not even looking forward to it. Sigh...... Well, at least this one doesn't smoke.....
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Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed '81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John Last edited by JimmyL; 08-29-2005 at 11:12 PM. |
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Agggghhhhhhh!!!! Just isn't going real well at all. Can't find that alignment nirvana. You just wouldn't think it would be this difficult.
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Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed '81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John |
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Weird to have 3 doors with power windows, and one with manual.....
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Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed '81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John |
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on the alignment
try again when well rested.
on the spousal thing... oh never mind... on the window thing. if it works it works. i have one which has one power and three manual. i just kept changing them when they went out and the drivers is the last power standing. i think perhaps it proves the best thing for the motors and gears is to be used. tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
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