Well you have a vac leak probably and a used 722 is cheap at PickNPull

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

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Vacuum problem is why it won't shut off. Stop is located near the firewall side of the valve cover. big red stop written right on it.

Let us know how things progress.

Cheers,

Bill

whats a 722? and whats picknpull

That vacuum line you broke off controls the shut off and auto trans shifting. It will shift very hard and not shut off unless you push the 'STOP' lever in the engine compartment. I did the same thing last time I changed fuel filter. You'll need to buy a whole new unit. About $90, I think.

A 722 is a transmission model number. I don't think you need a trans replacement based on what you've told us. I think you'll be fine if you replace the shut off assembly. My car was fine after I did.

BTW, the 'SUN' button is telling you your brake pads are worn.

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722 is the model auto trans which we assume you have..
pick and pull is a salvage yard in which you take your own tools which you and pull the items you want yourself... as opposed to them pulling and storing the stuff ready for you to walk in and get it... better bargains at pick and pulls typically...

"You'll need to buy a whole new unit. About $90, I think."
OR put that money on converting to manual trans....

what kind of unit do i buy? and where from?

The line you broke is called a "Booster Vacuum Hose":

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=1CQ0J3JZ41LW1BIETX&year=1982&make=MB&model=240-D-002&category=All&part=Booster+Vacuum+Hose&appChassis=_any

It costs about $60 from this site, or about $70 from the dealer. It is responsible for the engine not shutting of as well as the tranny not shifting correctly. You need to replace it before you try to trouble shot the tranny.

much thanks.... Ive been trying to figure out the name of that valve for 3 days now.... I didn't realize it sold as a line and not just a seperate vavle... no wonder I couldn't find it.

I did the same thing to my 240D a few weeks ago. The check valve is part of the main vacuum line from the vacuum pump to the brake booster. One of the small branch lines feeds the vacuum door locks and the engine shut-off valve. The other small line is part of the tranny control, and will make the tranny act like it's stuck in first gear. I was able to get home by plugging the broken connection with a screw and connecting the tranny line to the good one. The car shifted OK, but I had to use the STOP level.

Got it working. The transmission was kind of shot but i changed the fluid and put in some stp trany treatment. transmission works perfect now. got the booster line and the car turns off now.

White smoke out of the exhaust. Previous owners told me they dumped the car b/c trans was bad and shop told them a cylinder had bad compression and it had a bad valve.

Tried to adjust the valves today. I need to grind down one of my wrenches so i can seperate the locking nut and adjusting nut. I may order the damn wrench kit since the springs also turn as well. when i get funds.

Havn't done a compression test yet. need to buy a tester. may have the funds next week.\

BESIDES A COMPRESSION TEST AND VALVE ADJUSTMENT ANY DIRECTION ON WHAT TO DO NEXT TO THIS CAR THAT HASN'T RUN IN 3 YRS.

soundz like youa re off to a good start!!

valve adjustment and compression test are dam good ideas..
(you'll need a new valv cover gasket if you do the adjustment... also do the valves before the test!)
if the car is starting easily, it's a good sign as far as compression goes...

white smoke all the time? maybe coolant/water vapor from bad head gasket... keep your eye on this... watch for oil (black) or exhaust gasses (bubbles) in the coolant.. or water in your oil... feel for pressurized radiator hose before the car is started (not good)..

try to diagnose major problems before you spend too much money on the car!!

consider diesel purge (search forum archives) to clean/flush out the fuel system...

keep your eye on the fuel filters as they may clog with old fuel + sludge.. definitely consider replacing these...

check out the fuel tank for bacteria-related sludge and slime... perhaps a biobor treatment is in order...

watch hoses for brittleness/crackin and weeping/leaking of fuel fluids etc...

flush/refill fluid systems: coolant, brakes, trans, oil, diff, power steering...

if the car was sitting outside for a long while, check all the usual places door/trunk gaskets/seals for leaves/gunk/ water under the carpets/in the trunk... look around for rust trouble spots!

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Hey, Im trying to do a vavle adjustment on my 240D. I got some 14mm wrenches, heated them up and bent them. Works good, except i can't break the damn locknut. the wrenches just slip off the nut when i apply hard pressure. they were doing this before i bent them and heated them up as well. Im looking at buying the OEM wrenches and spring holder.
Do you think i may have the same problem with them, perhaps someone wore down the edges on the nuts, or do I just have cheap ass wrenches?
THANKS
Stephen

you should be able to tell if some idiot tried to adjust them using SAE wrenchs by looking....the edges should not be rounded over

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and idles smoothly dont bother with a compression test unless you are thinking of spending a lot of money on restoration and wont if the motor is tired. if you are just going to run it just run it. a compression test is a hassle to do.

tom w

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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I'd be willing to bet this is the case.

Did you take a look?

Cheers,

Bill