I'm slowely going through my car trying to address some electrical issues. Currently (yuk yuk ) I have:

- rear power windows not working
-left rear - blows fuse everytime its tried - right front (on same fuse) operable
-right rear inoperable

I've dissassembled all the switches and cleaned contacts including safety switch). I've re-soldered one suspect wire. The left rear door appears to have been repainted....can I apply 12 volts to window lift motor to test motor? wiring seems intact where it travels from door to chassis.

Glow plugs - dash indicator not glowing, car starts up, but perhaps (hard to tell) not as well - ie glowplugs might not be firing - I will soon be troubleshooting thsoe...

right rear turn signal - rapid bliking - left directional OK

All comments useful or otherwise welcome!!

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Rob M
Norwich, VT USA
1980 240D Euro delivery 4 speed manual silver/blue
~160K miles

You may want to remove the door panel first. You can then disconnect the motor leads from the terminals, and test the motor and switch portion separately. There may be a 'pinched' wire in there, particularly if the door was damaged prevsiously.

When testing the motor directly, I would put a fuse in circuit with the 12v supply just in case there is a short. You don't want to start a fire in the wiring.

Glowplug light (or lack thereof) could meant that the Glowplug fuse is burned out. I had this happen recently when after replacing my glowplugs the connector got moved when tightening and was shorting to the cylinder head.
Check your Glow-Plug relay for the fuse.

Rapid indicator blinking usually indicates that a bulb is burned out somewhere in the system.

Good luck

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1991 M-B 560SEL Arctic White/Grey 99,000 Miles
1987 M-B 300SDL Ivory/Palomino 229,000 Miles (sold but never forgotten)
2006 Volvo XC70 Blue/Beige
1999 Porsche Boxster Arena Red/Savanna Beige
1986 Porsche 928S Goldweiss/Brown

I repaired a window lift motor by disassembling it recently. The lower bushing motor shaft area was rusty. I cleaned it out, lubed it with MMO and reassembled.

For glowplugs, pull plug to controller, then test each line to block ground. Resistance should be less than 1 ohm.

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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

The SD has suffered from blowing a fuse when the RR window switch is utilized. I never quite fixed it, but, I did map all the wires and pin positions. It turns out that the replacement switch, which is definitely the correct part number, is either not the correct part, or defective. The rear switch operates the window just fine, but the console switch immediately blows the fuse. Tracking the pins confirms this. It's not a wiring issue. I haven't got back to it in quite awhile. But, I'm hoping a replacement switch will cure it.

LMK if you need any additional help in tracking the various pins to nail down the problem. I have all the data.........somewhere.

Great stuff! Many thanks.....

The rear windows on both sides are stuck up. If I want to access things I need to bring them down right??? How do I do that?

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Rob M
Norwich, VT USA
1980 240D Euro delivery 4 speed manual silver/blue
~160K miles

Remove the door panels and pull out the switch. Apply 12V and ground to the two motor leads. If the window tries to go up, reverse the leads. The window will go down, provided that the motor is OK (usually true). Also, this is provided that the plastic piece that drives the window, in the track, has not disintegrated due to the load. This is quite common when folks leave their fingers on the up button for much longer than necessary. If this is the problem, then advise. There are all kinds of tricks necessary to repair it.

Advise if you need further assistance removing the door panel.

Thanks Will do. I find the door panels very easy to remove. They're all off and probably won't be put back on for many monthes.....

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Rob M
Norwich, VT USA
1980 240D Euro delivery 4 speed manual silver/blue
~160K miles

I've had the RR window switch hanging out in the breeze.......non-functional.........for over 1 year.

Time to take door panels off to see what's going on inside there.

My SD's LR window only rolls down with the door open (from the master and rear switch) and will roll up with the rear door shut from the rear only OR with the door open will roll up from the master or rear switch. Weird eh?

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

For me some progress....Was able to jog the window with 12v wired to motor. I could tell it was straining and praising whoever it was that invented protective fuses....anyhow. I took the whole regualtor assembly & motor out to discover that along with the repainted interior of the door....the regualtor has been ":torqued" and will most likely require replacement...Seems that minor fender bender the PO told me about was more than a few scrapes Oh well...At least I believe I'm the right path...so far so good...

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Rob M
Norwich, VT USA
1980 240D Euro delivery 4 speed manual silver/blue
~160K miles