On Strider, I adjusted the pin last night (it's a new style), but I want to make sure I'm doing it right.

I backed off until the engine began to shake, then screwed in just until it stopped. It's much better, but I think it could still be improved. If I just want to try incremental adjustments, would I further tighten or loosen the pin?


A tip in repairing the cruise control: I resoldered the amp with no change - dead as a doorknob. Then I swapped the under-hood actuator from my dead 300SD and it works great! It's not always the amp - this is the second time I've replaced the actuator in an MB. You can ususally get them for about $75 used.

Though I have only had it for a short time, I am very impressed with this car. At over 400k, it is tight and rides beautifully (partly because, no doubt, of the new bilsteins in front) and has more power than either of my SD's. There is no blowby from the oil cap, no oil leaks anywhere, everything, including the AC, cruise, and even the power antenna works. The transmission is a little tired, but still shifts well. There are no rattles or groans in the car, even on my dirt road. The car has the original engine and transmission.

The car is a testimonial to proper on-time maintenance and is the poster-car for the non-synthetic oil camp - nothing but dino over the years in all systems.

The goal is to hit 500k on the original engine/transmission. Only three years to go!

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1984 300Sd 210k

Former cars:
1984 300D 445k (!!) (Strider) Original (and not rebuilt) engine and transmission. Currently running on V80 ( 80% vegetable oil, 20% petroleum products). Actually not, taking a WVO break.
1993 300d 2.5 275k. Current 120/day commuter
1981 300SD 188k (Hans) Killed by a deer

The point at which you currently have it will probably prove to be close to the best you can get it. If you want to attempt to go further, screw it in another 1/2 turn and see if you definitely see further improvement. If so, then continue in 1/2 turn increments. At a certain point, there will be no improvement. Then back it out the 1/2 turn to the previous position.

If it's too far in, you will have problems starting it.

I have had better results adjusting the rack damper with the engine hot and the car idling in "drive."

Did you guys use the $79 pin offered thru Fastlane or the $37 pin from Performance Products? Does anyone know if there is a difference? I'd like to support this forum through a purchase from Fastlane, but I won't pay double to do it.

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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

I got a $52 one from **************.....and it finally solved my shaking (doesn't do it anymore...) it did not make much difference right after I installed and adjusted it, but it has since calmed down over the past few hundred miles... No more shaking, nice and smooth and responsive....16.5k since valve adjustment and it still starts on the first crank and doesn't smoke anymore than it ever has. I'm still going to do one before the winter however.....

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

I had some cold weather idle issues so decided to adjust rack pin mine was all the way in so I backed it out a little at a time and it does not get any worse does this mean that the pin is bad.

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84 300 Turbo / 320,000
96 E300 D / 55,000