Link for Topsider - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

dieseldiehard · #31 10-23-2005, 12:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hatterasguy

As soon as my trans leak is fixed I will put the under body panals back on the car. Pulling them off is a pita; if you have ever seen them on a W126 the underside of the car looks like a smooth sheet of plastic.

A Topsider is on my Christmas list. They work good enough for marine diesels and those engines never seem to die from oil related problems. I know a guy who has 25k hours on his Volvo diesel and the oil has been sucked out of the dipstick since day one.

Well, your right Hatterasguy, some of these guys are not at all aware of the smooth underside the lack of clearance necessary to get to the screws that hold the sound panels on 124 and 126 chassis and what a royal PITA it is to put one back on! With a lift its no problem, but may as well pay a shop to do the work - ramps are dangerous too. Local man died here recently working on his car when it came down off the ramps onto him.
Maybe I'll have to post a picture pf the underside of the 124 then they will understand and comne down off their high horses!

Oh yes, I used my home made Topzider today. Everything went fine until I managed to overfill the catch jug! I suddenly had dirty oil all over the cement so I ran down and bought a huge sack of Kittylitter (non perfumed kind). Came home a spread it all over the mess. I should have stopped right there!

Instead I went to change oil in the 220 gasser and managed to spill oil all over the place using the conventional catch pan - a real mess! How did I manage that you wonder?
Well, the drain plug fell into the opening where the oil goes in and allowed the pan to totally fill and overflow before I could get it out, and I had to pull the catch pan out to find the drain plug and that let oil gush onto the cement. I shoulda used my Topzider!

Don't anybody listen to these guys who tout the "old under the engine" way. Get a Topsider!!! Be cool and clean

H-townbenzoboy · #32 10-23-2005, 12:57 AM

Our W126 doesn't have these underpanels. Were they for the 1986+ models?

WOOCHOW · #33 10-23-2005, 10:56 AM

Harbor Freight has a Topsider clone for $25. I haven't tried it but for that price it might be handy to have around. Part number 45403-0hkh.
www.harborfreight.com

Also the Mercedes Benz Club store has ab oil extractor for $49. It should be of decent quality if they are selling it.

300DPETE · #34 10-23-2005, 11:01 AM

I think there was another post in this thread (possibly in another) that said to stay away from the harbor freight one.

Pete.

Dana B. · #35 10-23-2005, 11:26 AM

I heard that, too. I'm going to buy a Pela 6000, which has a good rep on various boards.

aklim · #36 10-23-2005, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LarryBible

A wrench that fits your drain plug is much cheaper and will not melt when extracting hot oil.

Have a great day,

Change oil hot and change oil often.

Larry, where the hell were you when I did it with the Topsider???

This man doesn't ONLY have a clue as to what he is saying. He KNOWS what he is saying and I have a strange feeling he has paid for that knowledge.

I did the oil change with the topsider and it cost me dearly in time and aggrevation. At Zimbrick, they had something that slipped onto the dipstick tube and sucked the oil out like a porno star. I had run the car for a bit and then inserted the Topsider. The larger hose would collapse every now and then because it got soft. The lower hose held firm, or so I thought. It broke off because I put it in too far and when I extracted it out, I saw that the end was ragged. I had to take out the oil plug, drain it all out and have Gilly take out the Oil Quality Sensor and use a coat hanger to fish the reminants out. Thankfully it came out intact. Otherwise, I would have to drop the oil pan since that oil pan was not a two piece unit.

My lesson is that if I were to do it again, I would probably measure out how deep I was going to have to put it in and do it when the engine is cold.

300DPETE · #37 10-23-2005, 12:22 PM

Seems like it still work if, as Larry suggested, the hose was replaced with something tolerant of the hot oil.

Otherwise, I'll admit, I'm going to stick with draining the pan until I get around to modifying a topsider with a better tube.

Pete.

aklim · #38 10-23-2005, 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 300DPETE

Seems like it still work if, as Larry suggested, the hose was replaced with something tolerant of the hot oil.

Otherwise, I'll admit, I'm going to stick with draining the pan until I get around to modifying a topsider with a better tube.

Pete.

IMO, the lower hose is more important as it can break off in the oil pan. If it does break off well, "Let the Games, Begin."

300DPETE · #39 10-23-2005, 12:28 PM

Quote:

IMO, the lower hose is more important as it can break off in the oil pan. If it does break off well, "Let the Games, Begin."

Ah, crap.

I'll just drain the pan next time....given that it's not windy enough to blow the oil sideways like what happened before.

Pete.

Graham · #40 10-23-2005, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aklim

IMO, the lower hose is more important as it can break off in the oil pan. If it does break off well, "Let the Games, Begin."

I mentioned this before, but it was not picked up on.

When using a vacuum oil extractor, it is NOT required to push the plastic tube down the dipstick tube!

All you need is rubber bung (or a garden hose adapter) that fits into the dipstick tube and makes a seal.

The dipstick tube goes all the way to the bottom. Mercedes dealers that I have visited have a shop size vacuum unit that they just connect to the top of the dipstick tube and suck the oil directly into a drum.

The Mityvac unit I mentioned earlier has a valve that turns the extractor into a dispenser and allows the dirty oil to be pumped into the oil containers - no need to pour and make a mess, like I usually do!

Austin85 · #41 10-23-2005, 04:07 PM

AUGHHHHHHHH! -as Charlie Brown would say.....

A wrench, 8 qts of Rotella, a new Mann filter kit, and a drain pan....(I got a 10 qt model at Advance AP for $6.00, about 6" high)....

As said many times on this forum;"....the easiest job you'll do on your Mercedes."

IMO; take the $25. or $40. you would spend on the oil extractor and buy some Willie Nelson CD's and some beer......

sixto · #42 10-23-2005, 05:09 PM

The only conclusion then is that regardless of how you feel about engine oil extractors, they suck

Sixto
87 300SDL

Graham · #43 10-23-2005, 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Austin85

AUGHHHHHHHH! -as Charlie Brown would say.....

A wrench, 8 qts of Rotella, a new Mann filter kit, and a drain pan....(I got a 10 qt model at Advance AP for $6.00, about 6" high)....

As said many times on this forum;"....the easiest job you'll do on your Mercedes."

It is an easy job, but why do it the hard way? But to each his own - If lying on your back while covered in oil turns you on, by all means......

BTW, is Rotella a good idea?? Most dieseleheads I know have found much improved winter starting with Mobil 1 or Delvac 1, and then you can also extend time between changes (which may save a bit on the back!

)

Here is a quote from an old thread:

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxr

The 0W-40 is recommended by MB strictly for fuel conservation. For older diesels, I don't recommend it. At least one person who does oil analysis regulalry noticed significantly increased wear metals while running 0W-40, which dropped down to normal when he switched back to 15W-50 or Delvac-1.

Also, I said it before, I'll say it again - don't buy Rotella "Synthetic". It's not synthetic. And it's a poor value unless you get it nearly free. Use the Mobil-1 15W-50 or Delvac-1. I wouldn't worry too much about Cx ratings, as long as it HAS a "Cx" rating, that's the most important part!

300DPETE · #44 10-23-2005, 07:33 PM

The diesel mechanic I know will only put Chevron Delo 400 in all his diesels.

#45 10-23-2005, 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Graham

It is an easy job, but why do it the hard way? But to each his own - If lying on your back while covered in oil turns you on, by all means......

I kneel down, extend my arm with wrench in hand, and remove the plug

My 300SD has no underbody panels and the 16" rims help get it up a big higher. Its really not a bad job for those of us without the underbodied panels.

Besides I've always noticed that being able to have a gander under the engine while doing the job is good. Lets you check for stuff that you don't usually see.

For example, its time to replace my tranny cooler lines.

Its a 1 rag job of done properly. Drawing from above is probably easier but my oil pan is not exactly what you would call....in perfect condition.

Its sorta concave

...from the good ole days