1987 300TD Wagon Question??? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

gvanhouten · #1 10-23-2005, 09:05 PM

I just bought what feels like a lemon. I was told it needed a headgasket and in the process of pulling the head expecting a cracked head.

1st question is how can I tell which head I have if it original or if this has been replaced before? I see under the valve conver it states M1 any help would be most appreciated.

2nd is I just pulled the back seat passenger side and saw that there is a rip in the carpet. Turns out the vaccum supply pump was all disconnected. Obviosly this controls the vaccum but I need to better understand which systems if effects. Lastly the

How hard is it to replace the neutral control switch??? Thanks in advance. I bought this off of ebay and feel I should have known better but these cars are tough to fine. Thanks for listening

#2 10-23-2005, 10:02 PM

I wish you had done more research here before you bought. Your membership here is from early this year, so I expect you had opportunity, but well, now you ask!

Look in the archives and you will have a learning experience about head failures in the 603......

If your head is cracked, and you will only really know when you pull it, and where to look, do you know where to look?

The early, or first heads used, 1986-1987, were supplied with a #14 head. In all likelihood, you have a #14 head. How's your cooling system? Did you overheat? What do you think promoted the possible head crack, or if your lucky, which I doubt, a head gasket failure?

People here may be able to help you identify and help direct you for the best possible route to fix your situation.....

gvanhouten · #3 10-23-2005, 11:51 PM

I knew buying the car that it probably has a cracked head I am familar with the car but see the part number now that the intake manifold is removed.

Part number for head is 603 016 1401 .

The car did overheat!. The previous owner stated he hit something that punctured the radiator which created the overheating.

Which head do you recommend I put back in even if the head is not cracked I know this can be just a matter of time. The car currently has 188,000 miles far to young to retire. I am taking off the exhaust side tommorow and then will yank the head and see what I am dealing with. Thanks for all your help and time.

George

sixto · #4 10-23-2005, 11:53 PM

The vacuum pump in that car operates the central locking system and possibly the closing assist for the hatch.

The neutral start switch is not difficult to replace. You should check the bushings in the rod between the bottom end of the shift lever and the shaft that extends through the neutral start switch. If those bushings are worn or missing, there could be enough slop in the shifting action that the right pins in the neutral start switch aren't matched to allow the engine to start.

A lot has been said about 603 cylinder heads. Start with posts by gsxr (Dave M) and go from there.

Sixto
87 300SDL

BrierS · #5 10-24-2005, 04:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gvanhouten

I just bought what feels like a lemon. I was told it needed a headgasket and in the process of pulling the head expecting a cracked head.

1st question is how can I tell which head I have if it original or if this has been replaced before? I see under the valve conver it states M1 any help would be most appreciated.

2nd is I just pulled the back seat passenger side and saw that there is a rip in the carpet. Turns out the vaccum supply pump was all disconnected. Obviosly this controls the vaccum but I need to better understand which systems if effects. Lastly the

How hard is it to replace the neutral control switch??? Thanks in advance. I bought this off of ebay and feel I should have known better but these cars are tough to fine. Thanks for listening

Congratulations on the car. I have same year & model and love it. So far it looks as if your immediate questions have been answered. Do you have the manuals for the car yet?
Steve

gvanhouten · #6 10-24-2005, 06:17 AM

I have the WIS program for the car and it does okay for me. Where would you suggest I buy the books? Cars bodies in beautiful shape just alot more Gremlins in the car than I anticipated. As you know this car is tough to get and you can pay a ton to fine one in perfect condition so I thought what the heck lets play!!! Well it is already tugging at my wallet! Thanks for your help. Now I have three benzes two 124's 91 300te 4matic wagon (Just got done rebuilding top half) 87 300td wagon (AKA Money Pit) My pride and joy 1996 e300d with 50,000 miles and in perfect condition just got done doing control arm bushings, ball joints, rear differential.

BrierS · #7 10-24-2005, 06:47 AM

I found a copy of the "Electrical Troubleshooting Manual" by MB of North America which has helped me several times on the electrical gremlins. It covers Model 124 from 1986-1992. For the 124 I have to rely on a combination of the CD, Haynes, a couple of booklets from **************.com and this forum. For the W123 I have the entire set of MB service/repair manuals. Those make me realize how valuable an asset they can be. On the other hand, I still use the advice from this forum. What types of issues are you having with your 300TD? I may have already solved some of those on mine. Actually, I have mine to the point I just do regular maintenance (I hope I didn't speak too soon . . .).
Steve

C Holmes · #8 10-24-2005, 09:06 AM

I also have a 87 TDT and let me ask, does your shift lever lock in place when the key is out of the ignition? Mine will pull into gear when off and key out. Also my shift does not light up and I suspect a bulb but do not want to tear it apart if not necessary. Is it supposed to light up?

gvanhouten · #9 10-24-2005, 10:18 AM

I am just trying to get through the head now and I just need to take off the exhaust side and pull the head bolts and off she comes. IF the head is cracked where do I get the replacement without selling the farm???

These are the problems I see so far.

Headgasket/possiable crack
Neutral switch was not hooked up so suspect switch or bushing as stated in previous post.
Vaccum supply for the door locks does not seem to work. Looked under rear passenger seat and saw that it (vaccum box)is all disconnected.

glow plugs and leads need to be replaced.

key tumbler needs to be replaced.

checked into the ovp and looks like it has been replaced red cap

not sure how it drives but shocks look decent and acumulators where recently replaced.

The good things are that there is very minimal rust. One bubble on front fender and around two front door edges thats it. Not around the jack points very solid.

I normally would not touch a car like this that needs work but this combo is extremely rare to fine. 87 300td wagon. I figure I'll fix the gremlins and know what I have instead of paying the 6-7,000 dollars for the so called mint cars.

Brier one more thing we have in common are bulldogs. I have been a BCA member for 14 years and have shown and bred my bullies. Currently we have two dixie and sherman. I had my second bullie years ago die in my arms at the ripe age of 2 had a bad heart. So needless to say everytime I see your quote it takes me back.

jfikentscher · #10 10-24-2005, 11:00 AM

The light should be no problem. Take off the wood surround (One Screw!).
On the front side of the shifter is a wire. Pull it out of the shifter housing and replace the bulb. Screw on the wood surround. Done!!