![]() |
|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
Did my mechanic mess up this block heater installation?
Hi Folks,
Did my mechanic mess up my block heater installation? I purchased a 1000-watt tank-type block heater from JC Whitney for about $35. My mechanic said he could install that for $50, and probably $200 for the standard MBZ block heater, since it's harder to install. I opted for the JW Whitney one. For anyone who doesn't know, the tank type block heater is a metal cylindrical tank about 4 inches in diameter and about 10 inches high, with a coolant in port on the bottom side and a coolant out port on the top. It has a built in thermostat and the manufacturer claims that in about 2 hours, the coolant in the system should be about 140F/60C. It works via the thermosiphoning principle, in that it heats the coolant, which then rises through the block and then as it cools descends through the circuit to be sucked into the block heater again. Anyway, here's a picture of their installation. They charged me $115, more than twice what they said it would cost, because they found it very hard to do. It seems like they didn't follow the instructions that came with it at all. They mounted it VERY high in the engine compartment, and the out port leads to a high loop. The mechanic warned me that the loop was so high that if coolant in the radiator expansion tank dipped below the level of the loop "you could start a fire." The instructions specifically say not to have any loop above the heater where hot coolant could collect. When I plugged it in and left it for 3 hours, the temperature of the block was only 10 deg F above ambient (80F, ambient 70F). The temp gauge on the dash, when I put the car in Run, read nothing. The loop right above the block heater was 120F, but 3 inches down towards the engine on that hose, it was cool. Also, the hose attached to the bottom was hot, which the instructions warn is a sign of it not being configured correctly. Shouldn't my block get hotter? Should I take it back to them? Should I ask them to fix it? Any chance they'll fix it for free? Should I just forget using this kind of block heater and have them install the OEM one? Here's a picture of the installation. The block heater is the silver cylinder in front of the expansion tank. Thanks!
__________________
========================== Aaron '84 300D 267,000 - Running WVO - Rice Bran Oil - Mmmmmm, fishy... ========================== |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
I'm wary of any claim by JCWhitney, and I haven't bought anything from them in years. The fact that the coolant heater connects to the heater loop limits it's effectivity because of the small hoses restricting the passive circulation. I would give it a chance if it connected directly to the lower radiator hose, otherwise I doubt that heater would be very effective.
On the other hand, your mechanic is at least partly right that the factory block heater is a PITA to install, especially with the engine in the car. But it works.
__________________
'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88 '01 VW Beetle TDI '05 Jeep Liberty CRD '89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T '78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110 Oil Burner Kartel #35 http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
It appears that it was installed in the hose to the expansion tank! If so, that simply won't do, as the coolant doesn't normally flow thru that line.
The temp gauge not showing heat is proof it isn't working properly. Better tell them it isn't going to work, and hopefully they will change it at their expense! I think they should have installed a block heater for that price!
__________________
'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting! |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
I have bought 2 new Benz block heaters and never paid more than $34 for one and $45 for the other....
From the dealer I doubt they top $75.
__________________
Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
i believe
my indy charged me one hour to install. it is not easy but not complicated. just takes a long breaker bar and must be done from under the car.
tom w
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. ![]() ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Did you turn the heater controlls inside the car to full heat when you turned the heater on? The heater controll valves MUST be fully open, or else they will block any effective circulation.
You can check if they installed it in the right place by following the heater hoses. The heater should be installed in the heater return hose from the firewall to the waterpump. On my W115, this hose runs along the passengers side of the engine. There might be an arrow on the side of the heater as well. This should probably point towards the water pump (where the hose connects with the engine).
__________________
1971 220D/4-speed ~250K mi. Family owned (dads side) through three generations since <5K miles. 1992 Chrysler LeBaron, 3.0V6 125K. Family owned (moms side) through three generations since new. 1977 Chevy Camaro Continual hotrod project 1970 Cadillac Sedan DeVille 472ci and nearly 19' long 1974 Fiat Spider Still needs work |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
Looks to me like your tech did the job as he was supposed to do. However, he cannot be responsible for the item not working the way it was supposed to do either. This is assuming the instructions told him where to install it.
__________________
01 Ford Excursion Powerstroke 99 E300 Turbodiesel 91 Vette with 383 motor 05 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI 06 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI 03 SeaDoo GTX SC Red 03 SeaDoo GTX SC Yellow 04 Tailgator 21 ft Toy Hauler 11 Harley Davidson 883 SuperLow |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
As for the earlier post about connecting to the expansion tank, it's definitely not connected to the expansion tank. I have tried setting the heater to its max setting immediately, but it doesn't help. It still takes just as long to warm up. Do you guys see what I'm talking about re: thermodynamics? Maybe I'm wrong, since this is a closed loop kind of system, but with the heater near the highest part of the coolant jacket, and having a loop over it, I think heated coolant is just "hanging out" in the hoses right next to the heater. The heater also cycles really fast, since the heat just builds up right next to it. I can hear it turn on and then off really quickly. How hot should my engine be with a decent block heater? This is really irritating.
__________________
========================== Aaron '84 300D 267,000 - Running WVO - Rice Bran Oil - Mmmmmm, fishy... ========================== |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
This is what I get for trying to save a few bucks by going to a cheaper mechanic.
__________________
========================== Aaron '84 300D 267,000 - Running WVO - Rice Bran Oil - Mmmmmm, fishy... ========================== |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
you seem to be knowledgable about your car and the system you wanted to install...
why didn't you just install it yourself? this way you would've saved the most bux |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
I agree, but I am sure he has his reasons. Just because you have the knowledge doesn't mean you have the time. (being a student I lack both most of the time!)
Anyways, do you still have the instructions? See if there is some sort of mark on the heater saying which side is supposed to go where, and if maybe the mechanic put it in backwards. Next, see if you can re-arrange the hose that is already in there to eliminate the loop, because I do agree that it would seem to cause a problem (especially since the instructions say not to) If that doesn't solve it, I would head back and tell them to install it right, or head to DIY.
__________________
1971 220D/4-speed ~250K mi. Family owned (dads side) through three generations since <5K miles. 1992 Chrysler LeBaron, 3.0V6 125K. Family owned (moms side) through three generations since new. 1977 Chevy Camaro Continual hotrod project 1970 Cadillac Sedan DeVille 472ci and nearly 19' long 1974 Fiat Spider Still needs work |
#12
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
I have the instructions. It's pointed up correctly, but it is wrong in every other way according to the instructions. So does anyone here have a block heater? What does your engine temp read after leaving it on for 3 hours?
__________________
========================== Aaron '84 300D 267,000 - Running WVO - Rice Bran Oil - Mmmmmm, fishy... ========================== |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
The proper in-block heater will get the coolant and the block to 40-45C in 3 hours, even at 0F outside. It's a darn shame what that guy did. If he had more sense and pride he would have declined to do it any other way than in the block, which IMHO is the only correct way. As for removing the original plug without a breaker bar, you did not speak to anyone who has actually done it.
__________________
'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue" "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement." listen, look, .........and duck. |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
Your heater won't thermosyphon beceause the tank heater is mounted too high. The cold water should fall into the heater, get heated, then rise out of the heater. Mine was mounted on the wheel well - passenger side, battery is left front on my model - water fell out of the second-from-the-rear frost plug then rose into the return line for the heater core.
Where are your tank heater hoses connected? I may have an idea.
__________________
daBenz - 1970 220D |
#15
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
The output loops and disappears under the passenger side of the engine. I have no idea where it goes. I couldn't see from the top or looking up as best I could from the bottom. Is it at all a good sign that the top radiator hose gets close to 85F? Seems not nearly hot enough, though.
__________________
========================== Aaron '84 300D 267,000 - Running WVO - Rice Bran Oil - Mmmmmm, fishy... ========================== |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
|
|