New here..going to start on my 83 300D turbo - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

masthead · #1 10-30-2005, 11:46 PM

God help me. I am not a blessed mechanic but the things I have to tackle are:
Change out injectors
Change out glow plugs
Change out cam chain w/tensioner
rebuild vacuum pump and change out valve check valves
Change out water pump w/bypass lines
Change out front crank seal
adjust valves
time IP
flush engine
change out fuel lines
and it has me a little jittery to say the least. I have a couple of the tools
but the tool rental program you have sounds like a god sent...I can throw in my injector reamer when I am done with it but it seems that I will be needing more so I may ask to join your tool rental/sharing program if that is OK..

Also, has anyone filmed working on the IP? adjusting the Aida thingie and the back of the IP for fuel metering...?
There is a lot to learn and I have a long way to go but I can't let my 300 die on me...its the best anything I have ever owned....its an amazing car..
I have also been working on an idea for a mirco boost water injected mini-intercooler to let injected water flash and cool down the boost so save putting in an intercooler...anyone here have any experiance in adding intercoolers and WI injection.

Well, if anyone has gone through this long list of replacements can you please inform me of any pitfalls to watch out for and any advice you can throw would be well received.
Jeff Savage

masthead · #2 10-30-2005, 11:51 PM

I have seen what the vacuum resevoir looks like black frog eggs or about 3 dozen black golf balls located above the fuel tank in the trunk...I was thinking if this is part of my problem (engine will not shut off unless I lock my doors) maybe I can replace it with old alunimun ice trays with a lid welded to the top or a row of copper pipes sweated together and capped to form a resevoir...anyone run into this before?
thanks
Jeff Savage

also looking at after market K&N styled air filter change out...anyone tried this before?

whunter · #3 10-31-2005, 12:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by masthead

I have seen what the vacuum resevoir looks like black frog eggs or about 3 dozen black golf balls located above the fuel tank in the trunk...I was thinking if this is part of my problem (engine will not shut off unless I lock my doors) maybe I can replace it with old alunimun ice trays with a lid welded to the top or a row of copper pipes sweated together and capped to form a resevoir...anyone run into this before?
thanks
Jeff Savage
also looking at after market K&N styled air filter change out...anyone tried this before?

I am sure someone here has a spare vacuum reservoir you can buy, if yours is bad.

K&N air filter is a very bad idea, read the following thread.

K+N Filters are a bad idea for diesel engines.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=984635#post984635

whunter · #4 10-31-2005, 12:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by masthead

The things I have to tackle are:
Change out injectors
Change out glow plugs
Change out cam chain w/tensioner
rebuild vacuum pump and change out valve check valves
Change out water pump w/bypass lines
Change out front crank seal
adjust valves
time IP
flush engine
change out fuel lines
Also, has anyone filmed working on the IP? adjusting the ALDA thingie and the back of the IP for fuel metering...?

Well, if anyone has gone through this long list of replacements can you please inform me of any pitfalls to watch out for and any advice you can throw would be well received.
Jeff Savage

how was the diagnosis done and by who?
Change injectors why?
Change glow plugs why?
Change out cam chain w/tensioner why?
Rebuild vacuum pump why?
Change check valve why?
Change water pump w/bypass lines why?
Change out front crank seal why?
Flush engine why?
Change wich fuel lines and why?

Many threads and pictures of IP, adjusting the ALDA.
Please define: the back of the IP for fuel metering?

You need to read through the following thread before you get into to much heavy work.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=135055

t walgamuth · #5 10-31-2005, 06:16 AM

point is that you have assembled a long list of things that need changing which rarely go bad. so if you do all that you most likely will be wasting a lot of money.

tom w

Larry Delor · #6 10-31-2005, 07:31 PM

I doubt the vacuum reservoir is bad. The pump is the more likely culprit. Remove a vacuum line near the booster, and see if you get any sort of suction. If you get decent suction, then check all of the tubing...especially where they connect with that bit of rubber line (them darn things show cracks after 20+ years - go figure).

Have fun!

J. R. B. · #7 10-31-2005, 08:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by masthead

k...I was thinking if this is part of my problem (engine will not shut off unless I lock my doors)
Jeff Savage

also looking at after market K&N styled air filter change out...anyone tried this before?

Get a MityVac and check the door lock diaphrams inside the doors for leaks. They are on the inside of the door on the bottom. On Dad's 85 the passenger door and both rear doors were the culprits for the engine not shutting down. Listen to WHunter about the air filter.

whunter · #8 11-01-2005, 12:48 AM

mityvac, MB diesel owners hero.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=768686&posted=1#post768686

dannym · #9 11-01-2005, 08:48 AM

I agree with Hunter.
why would you just replace injectors? I would get them tested or like I actually did I made my own pop tester and cleaned and tested them myself.

Why would you replace the chain? How much stretch did you determine?
I had 4 deg on mine and added a $7.00 woodruff key.
Chances are very high that when you time the chain properly, whichever way you decide, the IP will come back into line with it. I would highly recommend you leave that alone for now.

Glowplugs should be tested with a multimeter.

Also there are a lot of online manuals at your disposal a well as the SEARCH function on this site.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=132282&highlight=manuals

Danny