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  #1  
Old 11-05-2005, 01:36 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 27
changing out radiator 300D

I am going to be chainging out the radiator in my 85 300D, I have the new radiator, any tips or secrets on the R&R?


big jake

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85 300D, 210K (and adding 1K per week)
86 Ford F250 4X4, 6.9 International Diesel,Banks Turbo, 5 inch exhaust, rebuilt engine (70K miles) rebuilt C6 trans (about 12K miles), on board air system and locomotive horns

1957 English Ford Anglia Panel ( my retirement project)
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  #2  
Old 11-05-2005, 08:34 AM
Coming back from burnout
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: in the Pacific Northwest
Posts: 2,274
You are going to have to take the Cooling Fan off

so that you can pull the cooling shroud off. Those 10mm nuts are a pain!

1. Disconnect both hoses
2. Drain coolant
2a. Remove all other hoses!
3. Remove Fan nuts (4)
4. Remove Fan and shroud
5. CAREFULLY Disconnect transmission cooler lines at the junction points midway between cooler and ATF pan and and be ready to collect
ATF spillage. Since you are replacing the radiator, you can than remove the two hoses at the radiator.
6. Disconnect oil cooler barckets on right side. There are two. Swing oil cooler free.
7. Pull out old Radiator.
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  #3  
Old 11-05-2005, 08:59 AM
Craig
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Also, be careful not to over-tighten the drain plug. I broke the head off one.
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  #4  
Old 11-05-2005, 09:01 AM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Blue Point, NY
Posts: 25,396
Here's a couple of secrets:

1) You don't need to remove the fan. If you round off the screws that hold the clutch to the water pump, you will be in a world of hurt. Unless you have a modified box wrench, you'll use an open end wrench..........and the result will not be a positive one.

Just unclip the radiator, lift the shroud, and it will be free of the radiator housing. Move it rearward and allow the shrould to rest on top of the fan.


2) You can remove the transmission cooler lines right at the radiator. There is no need to break a second connection midway back to the transmission.

3) As mentioned, separate the oil cooler from the main radiator via the two mounting screws. DO NOT attempt to disconnect the two oil cooler hoses.


Don't tell Richard about these secrets.
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  #5  
Old 11-05-2005, 09:35 AM
bullwinkle's Avatar
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: cincinnati
Posts: 377
Be sure to use lots of penetrating oil and a back-up wrench on the transmission oil cooler lines-that's what gave me the most trouble changing mine-watch out for twisting them as well. I changed both hoses and the v-belts at the same time(wish i'd changed the water pump and thermostat too ). A good citric acid flush before would also be a good idea(do a search to find out how), I also use the Zerex G05 coolant with distilled water from Wal-ly-Mart world, had good luck so far w/my Nissens radiator.
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2004 Ford E-350 6.0 L PSD 227K
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2005 Scion xB wife's rolling pop can
1993 GMC Sierra C3500 6.2 142K
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  #6  
Old 11-05-2005, 12:36 PM
Coming back from burnout
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: in the Pacific Northwest
Posts: 2,274
Any other Secrets?

Quote:
Don't tell Richard about these secrets.
D__ Its my birthday........
I saw that post with 0 replies this morning, and I said what a shame, no one is helping a guy who is probably new to 300D's, and I said "What a shame" I was 15 minutes answering it and late to the Bank, so no cah for the U PULL IT YARD today...being a nice guy s___s some times...
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  #7  
Old 11-05-2005, 02:56 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Blue Point, NY
Posts: 25,396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carrameow
D__ Its my birthday........
I saw that post with 0 replies this morning, and I said what a shame, no one is helping a guy who is probably new to 300D's, and I said "What a shame" I was 15 minutes answering it and late to the Bank, so no cah for the U PULL IT YARD today...being a nice guy s___s some times...

Yeah..........I got a secret..........after spending nearly two hours attempting to install the oil supply line for the turbo. Installed the gasket and the screws onto the turbo. Installed the retaining clip onto the air cleaner support bracket, installed the clip onto the back of the head.............and..............cannot get the bolt to start, squarely, into the back of the oil filter housing.

So, the secret is to remove the line at the turbo, remove both clips, completely, install the bolt loosely into the oil cooler, install the clip on the back of the head, install the screws and fitting onto the turbo and finally install the clip that holds the line to the air cleaner support bracket.

I'll tell you another secret: The line is made rather poorly. It's probably off by at least 1/4". So..........somewhere.........it's not going to go. Better be at a place that you can easily force it............like at the turbo.

Wonder if the gasket is going to leak?? Now, that's a secret!
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  #8  
Old 11-05-2005, 10:33 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 27
Thanks for all the tips, guys........

I was all set to go take care of this today until I came down with some kind of stomach disorder.

I am sure all the tips and secrets you guys shareed will make lots more sense to me once I get under the hood and start turning wrenches.

Thanks again

big jake

__________________
85 300D, 210K (and adding 1K per week)
86 Ford F250 4X4, 6.9 International Diesel,Banks Turbo, 5 inch exhaust, rebuilt engine (70K miles) rebuilt C6 trans (about 12K miles), on board air system and locomotive horns

1957 English Ford Anglia Panel ( my retirement project)
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