This is great.. Turns out the actuator for the trunk was bad, causing the leak. $10 and a half hour of time, and it's working great. Much thanks to MTUpower for his assistance.

Best/worst part is, the actuator came from the 77 that I gave to the junkyard a while back. Nothing like buying parts you should have had lying around.

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79 MB 280 SEL Euro 133k
77 MB 450SL 154k
05 Mustang GT Vert (3) 104k
12 TSX Wagon Tech (66k) (192k)
06 Subaru Outback base (135k) 164k
16 Acura MDX (109k) 111k
18 Silverado 2500 LTZ Midnight (212) 56k
97 Ford Ranger 163k
11 RAV4 154k
01 Escape 173k
04 Honda Pilot 292k
1967 Mustang (Resto Project)
1968 Mustang (Parts Bin)
00 Ford Ranger 124k

Good to hear, I'm nearly there with mine on the SD. It's either the door handle connector or the wiring from it as some fool stripped a few wires in an attempt to test something.

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

It's not worth it. Just use the locks as manual...I really don't see how that can be a horrible inconvenience.

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1982 240D.
My name is Michael, and I am an 18 year old binge-drinkin', cigar-smokin', novel-writin', all around unsavory and unnattractive guy. I tell long-winded stories, and I only shave once a week, although I've had to do it every day since I was 16.

lt's not that it's a terrible inconvenience. It's that once I replace the motor mount and resolder the cruise amp, my 24 year old car will be 100% operational, not 98%. Adds to not only the resale value, but to the "wow all of your stuff works" value as well. Besides, I like having my car 100%. Come on Hitman, you can do it!!!