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  #1  
Old 11-11-2005, 12:11 AM
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Noob with 83 300D Cold Start issues

Hi All,
I recently acquired a 83 300D Turbo W123 with a KKK turbo in fair condition, bought as is for less than 800 bucks.

SInce purchasing the vehicle, I have:
  • Changed Both Fuel Filters- Filled the screw on with Diesel Purge
  • Changed to updated Bosch Primer Pump
  • Changed Injector supply and return lines
  • Adjusted ALDA
  • REmoved the 15 lb oil soaked air filter, and cleaned air filter housing
  • Cleaned the "U" Tube of oil and found it wasnt even connected to the turbo
  • carefully Cleaned the intake area of the turbo with a cloth and some kerosene
  • Lots of miscellaneous Suspension work

I am still planning on adjusting the valves and replacing all the glow plugs and cleaning the banjo bolt fittings.

The glow plug light usually only stays on for 3-4 seconds and goes out, so I start the car, and it runs good for about 5 seconds, and then starts to falter, shake, smoke and stumble. If I dont feather the throttle, or give it gas, it dies. I restart and have to play with the gas pedal,or hold it 1/8- 1/4 down all the while with smoke and rough running making the hood rattle and the whole car shaking. After the car is warmed up (5 mins sitting or 3 mins driving) it idles beautifully, and accelerates effortlessly (THANK YOU ALDA GODS!). Warm strarts are the same, no problems whatso ever! Once the car is warm, no smoke, idles great no shaking, nadda.

DOes anyone have any ideas to kick this way? I still want to replace the rest of the fuel hoses, and under the car as well. My next step after the new suspension parts are installed and the car is aligned, is to clean the motor and start chasing oil leaks. But with this cold start issue (even in Texas) is a little disheartening.

Any advice is greatly appreciated!
Dub

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  #2  
Old 11-11-2005, 12:40 AM
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Best guess is that you have one or more bad Glow Plugs, or the Glow Plugs may just have such a build-up of carbon that they aren't very effective. You can do a Search to find out how to measure their resistance to see which ones might be bad.
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  #3  
Old 11-11-2005, 01:22 AM
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I used to have the same problem well still do sometimes. Let the glow plugs cycle longer before cranking so they get hotter. Also do the valve adjustment it works wonders. And also you can leave the pedal depressed about 1/4 - 1/2 while cranking makes it start a little stronger and not stall out. Also with adjusting your alda you need to get a boost and pyro gauge as not to blow your engine up. You could also have algae in your tank which tends to make the car stall when it is cold. That can be solved by running some bio in her. good luck.
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84' 300D Euro spec (Veronika)
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  #4  
Old 11-11-2005, 01:36 AM
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Lightbulb Can I get an

Oil Change......
Clean out fuel tank screen...
can do that when you replace lines....

303 the dash...

peanut oil on the exterior rubber......

post pics.
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  #5  
Old 11-11-2005, 09:13 AM
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i am betting

at least two bad glow plugs.

tom w
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  #6  
Old 11-11-2005, 09:32 AM
Craig
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My 300D will start OK (just a little rough) with one bad GP, but it's a PITA to get started with two bad GPs in cool temps. Check the resistance across all the GPs and replace the bad ones. Lots of posts on how to check glow plugs.
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  #7  
Old 11-11-2005, 09:39 AM
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Bosch or Beru

Aside from checking the GP resistance, you should also check out what brand of GP you have in there. Go with the Bosch or Beru GP's for replacements, both are German. To be safe, change them all out. If money is tight, then just replace the bad ones, but be sure that they are all the same brand that matches the old plugs.

My 85' cycles for a good 6-8 seconds with Bosch plugs and starts with 1 second of cranking.

--Hugh
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  #8  
Old 11-11-2005, 10:28 AM
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I'm picking up a set of 5 glow plugs today (Bosch 80006 from Auto Zone 9.99 each!). I'm trying to rent a reamer from another board member here, since I heard, if you dont ream, dont bother changing.

I'm getting my new tie rods assemblies and rear stabilizer links on Tuesday, so it will be roadworthy. Thats the hardest part, not being able to drive it, (or safely at least). Now to chase those oil leaks....
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Old 11-11-2005, 04:08 PM
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Just picked up my 5 Brand New Bosch Glow plugs. Anyone have a reamer for rent? I'll be putting these in as soon as I can find a reamer. Has anyone else used something other than a glow plug reamer to clean the chamber?

TIA
Dub
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Old 11-11-2005, 09:03 PM
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Red face Update:

Hi guys, I was able to beg a glow plug reamer from a local MB shop. Came home and replaced all the plugs, turned the key, and same thing. Runs smooth for about 3-5 seconds and starts to falter, smoke and shake. Give it some pedal and it comes out. Take it around the block and its REAL smooth. Park it for 10 mins, come back out, runs great, smooth, no shaking, no smoke.

I'm starting to run outta ideas.....
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Old 11-11-2005, 09:19 PM
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You may be sucking air into the system somewhere?? Once you give it gas and clear it out the air may be getting purged out. Check the o-rings on the spin on filter. Also check your inline fuel filter before you start it cold and see if it is empty of fuel. Is the problem worse if the car is on an incline facing up? Sometimes if air is getting into the system the fuel is uable to stay in the filter especially if it is parked on an incline.
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  #12  
Old 11-11-2005, 09:37 PM
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read this http://dieselgiant.com/injectorcleaning.htm
use this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Diesel-Purge-Lubro-Moly-Medicine-for-Sick-Diesels_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6763QQitemZ8013529801QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
See if you can get it locally, but i dought it...

I have a 76 300D, that had the same problems as yours... What I did was replace the voltage regluater, and do the diesel purge... unfortionatly I did them at the same time, so I dont know which one helped more, but i trust it now (didnt before)

Also it helps to start it as described in http://www.mbzponton.org/valueadded/maintenance/coldstart.htm
I know it says its for the pontons, but it works great for the other ones... like yours and mine

Good luck
~Nate
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  #13  
Old 11-11-2005, 10:13 PM
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mdisav,
Good info. When I repalced the screw on filter, I did not replace the Rubber or Metal O-Rings. Perhaps thats where the air leak is? The inline filter has a little air bubble in it (about the size of a pencil eraser), but I think thats always there isn't it?

Nate, thats the first thing that I did with the car the same time I replaced the filters, 2 cans of diesel purge ran through the motor. The old spin on filter weighed about 4 lbs!! I'll look at the pontoon site to see what thats about.

Thanks for all your replies! Anyone else have any ideas?
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  #14  
Old 11-11-2005, 11:05 PM
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I wonder if your glow plugs are staying on long enough. Easy to attach test light to glow plug and observe or even use a meter. I have learnt the hard way not to trust the dash glow plug indicator on most diesels to any great extent.Does not sound like it's the problem really but I would rather check it out to know for sure before going on further. Sounds more like you are getting some air though.
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  #15  
Old 11-11-2005, 11:57 PM
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Two items that I do not think you addressed. One possible algae or some other item in the fuel. Also try the valve adjustment.

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81' 300SD AKA "Big Helga"
84' 300D Euro spec (Veronika)
85' 300D NonCalifornia (Heidi)

"We shall not fail or falter; we shall not weaken or tire...Give us the tools and we will finish the job."
-Winston Churchill, 1941

"I'll have a Chinchilla!"
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