Wiring a Remote starter - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Zackb911 · #1 11-13-2005, 08:13 PM

Hey guys I just ordered a DEI Valet Remote Starter for my 1990 350SDL. I plan on doing the install next week and taking photos to make a write-up on the board for it. I was wondering if anyone had the wiring charts for this car. I cant find them on my usual site. I need to know the color codings for the usual ignition wires etc...

Thanks!
Zack

deerefanatic · #2 11-13-2005, 09:14 PM

Try bulldog car alarm's website. You can search by make, model & year. Even though you don't have a bulldog unit, the wiring colors in your car ain't gonna change!

whunter · #3 11-13-2005, 10:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deerefanatic

Try bulldog car alarms website. You can search by make, model & year. Even though you don't have a bulldog unit, the wiring colors in your car ain't gonna change!

MB is not listed on the bulldog car alarm website.

I do not know of a remote starter you can install on any MB diesel.

If I recall the 1990 350SDL correctly, you can not install a remote starter without engaging the security system and/or wrecking the wire harness + vacuum to shutoff valve must must be relieved, there is no remote start system that has a vacuum function + remote starter does not allow glow plug warm up time...

The idle law in some states gives police the right to fine owner for idle time = one ticket every X minutes.

d.delano · #4 11-13-2005, 10:31 PM

Is the purpose of a remote starter to warm the engine and interior of the car up on cold mornings? If it is, I have read on this forum that the car won't warm up until it's driven, unlike a gasoline car. Idling doesn't do it. Your 350 engine might be different, but supposedly all diesels are that way. My car's a bit primitive compared to yours but I can sure tell when I'm moving, the heat starts coming out of the vents. Doesn't do it sitting there after startup. Yours could very well be different though I don't know.

pawoSD · #5 11-13-2005, 11:04 PM

It takes a 617 a looong time to warm up when its real cold out just by idling, but it willl do it. It just takes about 10-15 minutes and mines right up around 80C with heat from the vents no prob (I've done it before, but usually don't, I start, wait a min or so at a high idle, then drive away when its real cold out). The 83 never gets above 82C, even when its blistering hot out, in the winter/cooler months it eventually warms up to around 80C, but thats as high as it goes, and it stays there like a rock.

phidauex · #6 11-14-2005, 12:37 AM

With an 86 SDL engine, what would that be? Is that a 603?

I'm about to install a remote starter (as well as keyless entry and alarm, all one unit) in my 300TD (w/ the 617 engine), and I've done some reading on how to do it.

For one thing, is the factory alarm all wired up on your car? I'm going to guess that it may not be, given the engine change.

Also, does the 603 have an electronic shutoff, or a vacuum shutoff?

If it has a vacuum shutoff, like the 617, then there is an additional piece you will need for remote starting, a vacuum changeover valve. An MB one is available, but this type of valve is common on mid 80's gassers as part of the EGR system. Basically it is a valve with a pair of input wires, and three vacuum ports. You can plumb the valve such that when the car is turned on by the remote starter, the valve is activated by the remote starter, and keeps the car running. When the remote starter shuts the car down, the valve switches, and the car shuts off. If you turn the key in the car, it doesn't matter that the valve switches, because the key is now keeping the car running.

How do you plumb this? I don't know, I haven't figured that out yet, but several forum members have done it, do some searches on the topic "remote starter" and "remote start diesel" etc.

As far as turning the car on, most remote starters have one of two ways of dealing with diesels, they can either sense the glow plug light, and turn on when the light goes out, or they can wait a preset amount of time, like 20 seconds, before starting. Some can do both.

Diesels do take longer to warm up, but it can be handy to get them started a little early. It may not work on the worst days, but my car will usually fire up on the first try with no 'goosing' on my part, and even the worst days it will usually come together on the second or third try, even with no fiddling with the idle on my part. If your car is in great mechanical condition, the starter shouldn't have a problem getting it going most days.

Anyway, hope that helps! Sorry I don't know much about the specifics of your car, I may know more in a week or two when I install my kit (the parts are still in the mail).

peace,
sam

Steve Gold · #7 11-14-2005, 10:39 AM

The handbook for my 84 SD says do not idle cold engine, I just get in and drive.

IMHO cold idle is bad because;

Cold thick oil.

Condesation in the exhaust system.

Carbon build up on injectors and pre chambers.

Cold engine makes stinky pollution.

Gives us diesel fans a bad name.

Steve

deerefanatic · #8 11-14-2005, 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

MB is not listed on the bulldog car alarm website.

I do not know of a remote starter you can install on any MB diesel.

If I recall the 1990 350SDL correctly, you can not install a remote starter without engaging the security system and/or wrecking the wire harness + vacuum to shutoff valve must must be relieved, there is no remote start system that has a vacuum function + remote starter does not allow glow plug warm up time...

The idle law in some states gives police the right to fine owner for idle time = one ticket every X minutes.

It is possible........I have one in my car!

It works, I am really busy right now, I will post in-depth info later tonight. I think my mile-long thread outlining how this was done got lost in the "forum crash" so, I shall set about the laborous task of retyping.

Until later,

whunter · #9 11-14-2005, 08:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deerefanatic

It is possible........I have one in my car!

It works, I am really busy right now, I will post in-depth info later tonight. I think my mile-long thread outlining how this was done got lost in the "forum crash" so, I shall set about the laborous task of retyping.

Until later,

Does this help you?
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=133043

deerefanatic · #10 11-15-2005, 08:28 PM

Thank you whunter!

You saved me an immense amount of work. Glad to see that wasn't lost.

That's how it was done. Remote locks were done with the piggyback method. I did find out that my unit wasn't defective. I was using tach sense, and it appears that the output from the tach amp to the tach gauge is just a variable voltage DC current.

I used the "vacuum sense" wire which is meant to be hooked to a vacuum snap switch on the manifold of a gasser. I hooked it to the alternator light. Engine starts, light goes out, starter quits cranking. Unfortunately, my alternator won't always energize quickly when engine is started in cold (30 degree) weather, because engine only idles at like 500 rpms for the first minute or so. Therefore, I can't trust it to start a cold engine.

Does anyone know of a good tach sense hookup or a dead-on dependable constant current that appears as soon as engine fires?

Thanks!

WannaWagon · #11 11-15-2005, 08:42 PM

Hate to rain on everybody's parade, but I gotta align myself with Steve here. I think prolonged idling is a bad idea no matter whether you drive a diesel or gasser, and personally I think remote starters are silly.

If you want to get your engine warmed up faster, the best way is to get in, fire it up, wait a minute or so tops to get the oil circulating, then start driving gently until the engine is warm.

If it bothers you or your loved one to climb into a cold car, then a better route is to remotely trigger some kind of heater that is separate from the engine, like a little electric heater or something. Or install a block heater.

It's well proven that prolonged idling is the most harmful driving condition for any engine. It's also the situation in which any engine produces the most pollution. You're also wasting fuel, which as we all know is a costly thing to do these days.

pawoSD · #12 11-15-2005, 10:59 PM

You could create a system similar to the "cabin post-heating" available on MB euro models.... just have a block/engine heater (either diesel fired or electric) , and an electric pump (strong one) plumbed into the cooling system, and have it circulate hot water through the system, it'd keep the engine warm, and if you got real fancy and creative and attached a trigger for the blower to run at a low speed + monovalve to open, then you'd have both a warm car and engine.

As for me, I am a rugged michigander, I go out in the dead cold/snow, and crank-er up....preferably with block heater involvement coming soon, I haven't used it yet, but I think I will start to use it in the next few days, its getting cold!!! They said snow is in the foreseeable future...yeesh. Oh well.

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